SkinTipTuesdays || Tipping a Winner…or Not!

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Well I never.…. who could have predicted America’s political #trumptastrophy…and I didn’t,  as didn’t a lot of other people?

Judging from my Instagram feed and the media fallout post election, most people are incredulous at the unexpected outcome of the American Presidential campaign.

I, alongside many other people, sit mouth agape, amongst  the campaign carnage, perplexed and amazed at how ‘the Donald’ actually ‘Trumped’ his way to victory?

In my mind, @HellYeahforHillary was going to romp it in, but now both Hill and I are having to ‘fall on our swords’ and, ‘concede defeat. Obvious now I  didn’t tip the winner and with the benefit of hindsight, I’m graciously withdrawing from my inaccurate forecasting  of American politics, taking a tip from the universe and sticking to what I do know. Skin!

Instagram users have an insatiable appetite for skin care  tips and like the American staple of buffalo wings with blue cheese dressing: one is never quite enough is it?  Bring on #SkinTipTuesdays!

Instagram SkinTipTuesdays are where I feed practical tips and science, evidenced based skin care advice, to those devoted to all things skin, on Instagram. Tips which deconstruct and demystify the ‘smoke and mirrors’ surrounding skincare, helping you get more bang from your skin care buck.

So ‘Skin Up’, back  away from those buffalo wings, and console yourself with a generous serving of  my  favourite  #SkinTipTuesdays Instagram posts…… reliable, winning tips with a ‘proven projected’ outcome !

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16. 0f My Top #SkinTipTuesdays 2016!

 1. HYDRATE on repeat!

Hydration is what keeps the cellular processes in our body functioning optimally. For every alcoholic drink your body expels 4 glasses of water! Its recommended to alternate every 1-2 alcoholic drinks with a glass of water

2.Your lips are often a good indicator of when your skin needs more moisture.

If your lips are feeling a bit dry, humidity may have dropped and it might be time to add more moisture into your skincare routine.

3.Keep EYECREAMS in the fridge!

Not only does it extend the shelf life of the product, it is soothing whilst having a vasocontricting (tightening) effect on blood vessels helping to reduce redness and puffiness.

4. Vitamin C is a potent antioxidant, important for skin health.

Vitamin C is very unstable when exposed to air and light, turning a brown/orange colour. Any skin preparations containing Vitamin C or Ascorbic Acid which have discoloured should be discarded. This means they’ve oxidised and cannot provide any skin benefits! Tip;Use your vitamin C at night!

5.When performing your routine skin checks for skin cancer, Ensure the skin underneath TATTOOS are thoroughly checked as they can disguise new skin growths and moles especially if the ink is dark!
6.Avoid using over-the-counter skin care products containing RETINOL and prescription retinoids

Discontinue Vit A derivatives two to five days prior to waxing.Vit A increases photosensitivity  in the skin creating an increased risk of burning when exposed to UV light  and light based treatments, and also helps to reduce the risk of removing skin along with hair when waxing.

7. ACNE News

 Isotretinoin is still the gold standard when treating Acne Vulgaris. A new study shows the combination of isotretinoin together with antihistamines have a significant decrease in acne lesion counts, sebum, erythema and side effects such as dry skin and mucous membranes caused by isotretinoin.

8. To B3 or not to B3?

Cosmeceutical companies are taking advantage of the many benefits of Vitamin B3. In skincare products you’ll recognise it as niacinamide, nicotinic and nicotinate esters. Niacinamide is most commonly used as it’s able to penetrate the skin without causing irritation.Some of It’s many benefits include;• enhances barrier function • helps reduce sensitivity and irritation • acts as a skin lightener- preventing the transfer of melanin to skin cells • helps to reduce fine lines and wrinkles • helps to reduce the onset of Actinic Keratosis We should definitely B3ing!

9.Get the best out of your products by knowing when to use them, it’s all in the timing!

✔️AM || use products containing sunscreen and antioxidants.

✔️PM || Retinols and richer more nourishing products.

10. Lets get Fruity

Fruit enzymes are used in ‘exfoliators’ to help remove superficial layers of the skin,improving texture, hydration, pigmentation and assisting in the absorption of companion skincare products. Types of enzymes used include bromelain- derived from pineapples, and papain – derived from papaya; allergies from papain are very common so it’s a good idea to patch test prior to use. Tip || Test on the inside of the forearm once a day for 3 days, checking for any redness or irritation….any irritation will be your stop light!

11.Get more out of your products by applying to damp skin-helps skin absorption and easier application.
12.October is breast cancer awareness month and a good time to remind us all to check our breasts regularly. Something else to look out for are changes in skin colour and texture.

When the lymph vessels that help our bodies fight infection become blocked by cancer cells, they can cause the breast viagra prix maroc belgique skin to change in colour and texture. Redness, swelling, itching, scaling, dimpled or skin which becomes puckered are signs you need to get checked …just saying!

13. Retinols/Retinoids/Vitamin A are all degraded by light or when exposed to air.

In order to maintain product efficacy correct packaging is important, that is; a pump which reduces oxidation when exposed to air or metal packaging preventing light degradation. A shelf life of 6-9 mths can be expected.

14.  MYTH BUSTING

A common misconception is that wounds should be air dried and a scab allowed to form. Recent studies now confirm that keeping wounds moist and covered with dressings not only reduces pain and the risk of infection but also results in faster healing times when compared to dry wound healing.’ ….busting a myth from my recent blog in SCAR FREE || TREATMENT OPTIONS FOR SCAR MINIMISATION EXPLAINED!

 15.  If your skin care products are packaged in a pot,,inhibit bacteria growth by using a spatula rather than fingers when applying to your face!
16. HOT HOT HOT || SUNSCREEN TIPS!

 Here’s one of my helpful tips from an older blog post – apply sunscreen 20-30 minutes before you go into the sun and then again 15-30 mins after sun exposure begins – this is the key to protection! Titanium and zinc based sunscreens offer immediate protection.

If you’ve developed an appetite for #SkinTipTuesday come join me on Instagram every Tuesday, I’d love to see you!

Susan x

 

 

 

 

 

 

SKIN DIARY OF A DERMAL CLINICIAN – what a skin professional uses on her own skin !

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This month I’m getting down, dirty and a little bit personal, opening my bathroom cabinet with a peek inside my personal skin care toolbox, with a little too revealing of my no fuss, no muss approach to skin care.

As a Dermal Clinician and skin health professional I’m sharing my daily skin care diary with a glimpse into what a skin health professional does (or rather doesn’t do) to keep her skin healthy and looking it’s best…..you may be surprised!

You won’t see a bathroom cabinet heaving with products. I maintain a simple skincare philosophy; combining ingredients that deliver results, backed up by scientific evidence. My message of Keeping Skincare Simple is what works best for my skin.

Acknowledged or otherwise,  being on the front line of skincare/skinhealth means there are pressures to maintain and present a happy, healthy skin…. after all,  you wouldn’t go to a dentist with bad teeth would you?

My minimalistic streamlined approach to skincare was born from lack of time with a splash of laziness – no Robinson Crusoe here – so what little I do do for my skin needs to be both effective and time efficient and able to treat the visible signs of ageing, of which there are a plenty….I’ll get to that!

You would expect and assume, with my background in skin sciences I’d have this ‘skin thing’ all sown up, with the perfect formula for radiant, glowing and youthful skin at my fingertips. As they say, ‘careful, assuming makes an ASS out of U and Me’ and it not  surprisingly, I don’t always have the perfect skin 100% of the time. Yes, being a Dermal Clinician means I have the skills and resources in my skin care arsenal to know what works and what doesn’t when treating my own skin, but there are times when my skin doesn’t always play nice!

Under the magnifying lamp…

With my Dermal Clinician  hat on, there’s no denying that this more than middle aged woman is suffering from the effects of the visible signs of ageing, due in part to a misspent youth on the beaches of Sydney. Pigmentation/ skin laxity/increasing dryness together with the occasional spot and ohh, my arch nemesis – fine lines and ‘wrinkles at rest’ all combine to produce the visible signs of ageing. They’re referred to as ‘wrinkles at rest’  because they remain permanently etched long after that last laugh… well, find a seat somewhere else!

Whats in that cabinet….

Morning routine
  • I use a gentle Cosmedix oil based cleanser –  Purity Solution morning and night as I find this to be the most efficient in removing makeup and dirt. I tend to steer away from foaming cleansers as the lauryl sulfates needed for foaming to occur are a bit drying on my skin.
  • 2-3 times a week and in the shower I exfoliate with Clinicians Complex Microdermabrasion Cream which contains fine magnesium oxide crystals helping to remove a buildup of dead skin cells.
  • You can never have enough sun protection so I use a broad spectrum UV sunscreen doubling as my daily moisturiser…..might be a little lazy but it does the job!
  •  Colour Science manufacture a ‘Sunforgettable’ mineral based powder with 50+sunscreen –  water resistant , great when exercising.
Night-time weapons
  •  I repeat my cleansing ritual using a face washer which helps to exfoliate.
  • Whilst my skin is still damp I apply SkinMedica Vitamin C+E Complex serum which I allow to absorb-approx 1 minute (taking up almost ½ of my allocated routine)
  • This is followed by a prescription strength 0.05% Vitamin A – commonly known as Retrieve

Tip; Vitamin A and Vitamin C are best used at night as they’re  oxidized by air and light.

  • If I extra moisture is needed i reach for Cosmedix Rescue Balm/Mask which can be left on overnight – this can be quite occlusive and not for everyone but I love the thick texture and how hydrated my skin feels in the morning!

Tip; Don’t forget your neck and décolletage – extend product onto these areas as they’re often exposed to the sun.

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 And with a little help from my friends…

Bi-annually I enlist the help of my colleagues for some IPL keeping pigmentation and redness under control.

I’m a fan of medical grade peels which resurface the skin. Both these treatments involve a little downtime but are well worth it when chasing a more youthful even skin tone.

I’ve made friends with muscle relaxants and dermal fillers but less is definitely more, when it comes to muscle relaxants and dermal fillers.

What I should do more of…..

  1. Eat less sugar –sugar causes inflammaging –a low grade chronic inflammation at the cellular level and sits alongside the sun as one of the causes of aging and in the aggravation of acne.

2. Drink more water- this hydration calculator will help you assess if you’re drinking enough water

3. Exercise more- – exercise helps to reduce cortisol, the hormone released when we’re stressed.

I plan on ageing disgracefully …. those visible signs of ageing are in for quite a fight… glove up wrinkles and pigmentation – I will not go quietly!

Disclosure :Lastly I’d like to mention this post is my personal skin diary as a Dermal Clinician and I have  included products I have purchased and found to be effective…..also no animals were kicked or maimed in the writing of this post!

 

 

 

 

 

AT WAR WITH PIGMENTATION – MY TOP TIPS!

 

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We Aussies love our sunburnt country! Many Australians will have experienced a ‘Sunburnt Sunday’. Unfortunately, those lazy Sundays  spent in the sun can manifest in pigmentary dischromias in the skin. These pigmentary dischromias are  caused by the  accumulation  of UV exposure and referred to as photoaging. Unwanted dark spots, uneven skin tone, solar lentigines (brown age spots) and even Melasma-a condition which can be triggered by the sun, hormones or have a genetic influence are a visible reminder of our

fun in the sun.

Thankfully, there are a number of treatment options available to reduce the appearance of pigmentation, all involving persistence, patience and a little light based intervention. Depending on the type and severity of pigmenation treatment options can be tailored to skin type with great outcomes and happy campers!

When 2 tribes go to war- Hyper vs Hypopigmentation

Hypopigmentation is the absence of melanin and is caused by sun damage, seen in conditions such as Idiopathic  Guttate  Hypomelanosis and Vitligo. Idiopathic Guttate Hypomelanosis appears as ‘white spots’ in sun exposed extremities like arms and legs. Vtiligo includes larger areas of depigmentation and may be caused by an autoimmune disorder, triggered by sunburn, stress, genetics, viral infections or even physical trauma to the skin. In a recent blog I’ve detailed  available treatments options – From Valentino to Vitligo for further reading. Fungal infections such as Tinea Versicolour

or Pityriasis Alba may also temporarily cause hypopigmentation and are successfully treated with anti-fungal or over the counter steroidal creams.

Hyperpigmentation occurs when the cells, which produce pigment in our skin called melanocytes, are overactive and produce an excess of melanin, resulting in an uneven distribution of pigment.-the cause of which can be due to sun damage, hormones or disease-which in some cases are more difficult to treat.

Personally, I have a love/hate relationship with hyperpigmentation. I hate that hyperpigmentation is a visible sign of aging-photoaging. Conversely, I love the outdoorsy lifestyle which keeps me on the hyperpigmentation treadmill of triggering pigmentation and it’s subsequent removal! I also love the many treatment options available used to treat my hyperpigmentation .I’ve used them all……well most of them, to successfully fade and treat my pigmentation…..here are my tips!

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Weapons of mass pigmentary destruction

Home care arsenal – ingredients to look for and include in your skin care!
  • Sunscreen – prevents the oxidative stress caused by UV rays leading to pigmentation
  • AHA’s BHA’s  and Exfoliators – shortens the cell cycle, removes superficial skin cells,  interferes with pigment transfer and allows deeper penetration of lightening agents
  • Vitaminc C- inhibits melanocyte proliferation
  • Licorice extract
  • Bleaching agents Hydroquinone, Kojic acid, Azealaic acid and Arbutin
  • Retinols accelerates cell turnover
  • Niacinamde/Nicotinic acid/ Soy acts as a skin lightener working by inhibiting melanosome transfer from melanocytes – keratinocytes in the production of melanin.

Tip; Allow 12 weeks to see an improvement. As a point of reference, take a photo so you have something with which to compare and track improvement.

Bring on the big guns !

  • Lasers/ IPL – treat pigmented lesions by selective photothermolysis, Heating the targeted tissue, effectively destroying the pigmented cells.
  • Chemical peels are another great treatment option to consider.They can vary in strength and depth of penetration and should be tailored to skin type. Combinations of Glycolic and Lactic acids have been found useful in treating pigmentary disorders by lifting and exfoliating the superficial pigmented layers of the skin.
  • Kligmans formula – a combination topical therapy containing Vitamin A, Hydroquinone and a corticosteroid-prescription only and not advised for long term use.
  • Transexamic Acid an oral treatment used as a treatment for heavy periods it has been found to inhibit tyrosinase activity aiding in prevention of melanin production.

Understanding the types and causes of pigmentation will contraindicaciones del viagra en adultos mayores determine which treatment options will  achieve the best outcome. Together with a tailored home care program  ‘Winning the War’ against pigmentation has never been clearer!

Need some help with diagnosing what type of pigmentation you have, drop me a line?

Susan x

 

 

 

LET THERE BE LIGHT!

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I feel like Mark Webber in my very own F1 race car hurtling my way through middle age at what feels like break neck speed, simultaneously fumbling for the handbrake!

As a practising dermal clinician its vital I stay current and up to date with new technologies in the treatment of photo-aging not to mention my personal interest! Whilst not necessarily wanting to return to my teens prior to the sun damage, I’d like to maintain a face that doesn’t misrepresent how I feel inside this 50 something lived in skin!

If you, like me, wear the mask of photo-aging (sun spots,fine lines and broken capillaries), as a result of a misspent youth on Australian beaches then you will appreciate the benefits of Intense Pulsed Light.

 Jump in the passenger seat , I don’t want you falling asleep at the wheel but this is the information you will need to assess your candidacy for IPL.

“IPL” has  been used in non medical settings for 17 years with some mixed results ,which has a lot to do with operator/experience and machine, so choose your driver wisely!

 IPL works in the same principle as lasers in that they emit a light energy through a specialised hand piece targeting pigment or chromophores in the skin. This light energy is converted into heat, absorbed by the target, in turn obliterating the target. The difference between Laser and IPL is a broad spectrum wavelength (light) as a opposed to a single wavelength emitted from a Laser.

  IPL’s capabilities don’t stop at photo-aged skin, it  is a multipurpose machine able to treat hair removal and rejuvenation. IPL is a method of permanent hair reduction, requiring occasional maintenance and does fall short when treating fair hair as the light requires a chromophore/pigment in order to be targeted. When treating photo-aged skin,between 3-8 treatments are needed to  be effective, depending on area/condition being treated. Hair reduction usually requires 6-8 treatments for optimal results.

 The beauty of IPL is minimal down time and being able to return to work straight away.

 What to expect when being treated– a cooling gel is applied to your skin which helps conduct the delivery of light through a handpiece with a glass head, which  has an integrated cooling system, and applied to the skin where a pulse of energy is delivered. It feels like and elastic band flicking the skin (tolerable), which for some may be uncomfortable and can be relieved with  an application of topical anaesthetic.

 Sun spots

A silvering and subsequent darkening of pigmented lesions. 10-12 days post treatment the darkened area is sloughed off with normal skin cleansing routine. If there is an abundance of pigmentation eg freckling you can expect to see what is referred to as a “milo” appearance .

Capillaries,Vessels

May disappear immediately or fade over the following 2 weeks.

Photorejuvenation

Swelling and tightening of the skin.

Hair removal

Hair needs to be treated in the growth phase to be effective, so treatments may needs to be spaced 6-8 weeks apart. Erythema (redness) surrounds the hair follicle as an end point.

Risks and side effects

  • Some pain during treatment
  • Erythema and a little soreness immediately post treatment-similar to sunburn-peeling,swelling
  • Blistering and crusting
  • Hyper/hypo pigmentation
  • Hair loss-important consideration when treating men.
  • Bruising- can affect 10% of clients

Contraindications to consider include herpes, skin trauma, skin lesions, keloid hypertrophic scarring, moles, skin cancer,sunburn, suntan,epilepsy, hyperthyroidism, breastfeeding, pregnancy, use of photosensitising medications or creams and those with Fitzpatrick V-V1 darker skin tones. Not all these conditions are absolute contraindications to IPL treatment but the consideration of these is an important role of a Dermal Clinician.

If this is sounds like you, jump back in the driver’s seat and drive towards the light full throttle!

 

If you require more detailed information you’re welcome to contact me via our ask banner at ASkinSolutions.com.au