ASkinSolutions

As a Dermal Clinician I’m not wanting to wage a one women crusade targeting cosmetic companies, preferring instead to provide information for consumers allowing them to make informed choices when purchasing skin care.

Recently on Facebook a friend posted her new range of recently purchased, beautifully wrapped ,psuedo medically labeled skin care with the caption #illgiveitago, which got me thinking……..do consumers really have an understanding of ingredients in skin care and what they can expect to achieve from using them,and /or their limitations……….or just throwing the dice with every purchase ?

“If it’s wet dry it…….if it’s dry wet it’! is the ‘catch cry’ for those of us who deal in skin.

Skin defines who we are and how other people perceive us so little wonder Aussies hand over in excess of 60 million of hard earned $$$$$ a year in cold hard cash in order to present the best possible us – but are these $$$$$ well invested ?

In our society beauty and youth reign supreme, so no surprises when we’re seduced by clever marketing campains and find ourselves clamouring for products claiming to be the elixir of youth, hoping to find our spent youth in the next jar!

Skin’s demands are simple. It doesn’t like to be stressed and it loves to be cared for.

Skin wears it’s badge of irritation, showing it’s displeasure by getting all rashy and cloaking you in red. Apply something it loves and be rewarded with glowing ,dewy skin free of irritation and imperfection. However, if – like many of us, you are part of the unfortunate collective who suffer from chronic skin disorders then management isn’t always so simple.

“She works hard for her money” ….thanks Donna Summer.

Skin works tirelessly 24 hrs a day functioning as a barrier to the environment and infection. If compromised by excessive cleaning or injury it is unable to perform its job as a gatekeeper. In order for the skin to perform optimally it must maintain an acid mantle of 4.5-5.5 and maintain lubrication by secreting sweat and oil through our skin glands This oil also acts as a waterproofing agent on the surface of the skin.

Great Expectations…..

There is no quick fix!

The science of skin care is ever evolving and has led to the rebranding of skin care as ‘cosmeceuticals’ with names such as Medik8, Cosmedix, Skin Physics, MD Formulations, DNA Reset and Photon to name a few. Such medicalised name branding is a deliberate strategy to insinuate confidence in their brand, subtly leading consumers to believe their product is medically endorsed.

Truth in aging published a review describing the the term Cosmeceutical as being misleading and stating under US law to have no meaning. Further in the article it describes there is a record number of warning letters to Cosmeceutical companies for making misleading claims.

http://www.truthinaging.com/review/cosmeceuticals-what-are-they

Even with my background, at times I find it hard not to be seduced by all this colour & movement and “freegift with purchase” marketing, but can they deliver on their claims, or will it only end in empty wallets and dissappointment for the consumer?

Skin functioning as a barrier frequently means that absorption of many of these ‘super duper and innovative’ ingredients is prevented – they are unable to be absorbed due to their large molecular size so will stay exactly where you applied them.

For the most part it will be tears for the consumer…..but there are some ingredients in skin care that will benefit your skin.

Tis not all acne & age spots doom and gloom……….

What does work? What should we be looking for?

Retinoids and Retinoic acids

Vitamin A derivative known to increase epithelial turnover
Used in the treatment of fine lines, acne and pigmetation changes
Retinoids are available by prescipton only and are available in greater strengths
Retinols may be purchased over the counter in skin care formulations
Degraded by light so best used at night
May increase photosensitivity so sunscreen is vital
Introduce slowly as may cause irritation
Not to be used by lactating or pregnant women

Vitamin C or L-Ascorbic acid

Anitoxidant and essential part of skin health
Essential for collagen formation
When used in conjunction with Vitamin E and Zinc plays an important role in wound healing

Vitamin E

Antioxidant and found naturally occuring in sebum which lubricates the skin
Absorption is limited to the epidermis

Vitamin D

Synthesised in the skin and benefits those suffering from psoriasis
Assists in the wound healing process

Vitamin K

May be used topically in the treatment of bruising,spider veins ,stretch marks,burns and inflammation
Used in the treatment of Rosacea

Vitamin B complex

Helps maintain skin hydration
Assists with pigmentary changes
Reduces inflammation

Alpha Lipoic Acid

fatty acid and powerful antioxidant
Facilitates the properties of Vit C and E

Hyaluronic Acid

Naturally occurring in the skin
Attracts water and able to absorb 1000 x it body weight
Used in fillers due to it’s water loving properties

Gold in them thar hills……

Minerals for the skin

Copper

works together with Vit C to form elastin,a supporting structure of the skin improving elasticity and thickness

Zinc

Healing properties
Regulates oil production
Benefits an Acne skin

If you want a shared loving relationship with your skin, include some of these ingredients in your skin care and remember ‘if it’s wet dry it, if it’s dry wet it!

Rome wasn’t built in a day, so allow 6-8 weeks for visible signs of improvement and to include these Vitamins in an healthy diet whilst maintaining good hydration with lots of water…..your skin will love you for it!

ASkinSolutions is happy to answer any skin care questions you might have.

To squeeze or not to squeeze………………..or pick,or prick,or pop,or scratch-that is the question?

The birthing of a pimple is no cause for celebration and there will be no naming ceremony at my house. We’ve all played host to these nasty, painful, unsighly, throbbing, mind of their own insidious beasts.

They choose their host indiscriminately but not their position, placing themselves front and centre like Ricky Martin on stage and never never never discreetly behind your ear,or in your hair line kinda place.

The Third Eye-unseeing but not unseen!

Aways in a place where random strangers are immediately confused as to which head they should be talking to, coinciding with the day you’ve booked the family photo shoot in preparation for the xmas card mail out, thats our beast!

A BCF ( best concealer friend) became my 11th finger during those times of torment. Armed with a ‘go hard or go home’ attititude and an inability to restrain myself, the creation af a green headed monster to embark on it’s own healing process never entered my mind. Immediate erradication was overiding. As a Dermal Cllinician I am now skilled in removal of my own Mt Etna’s but I’m not sure I would advise the same technique to fellow sufferers. Hypocritical I know but I want scar-free and complication-free outcomes for my clients.

Gotta getcha outta my life………..

Professionally I approach this delicate procedure glove,gowned with aseptic practice. Reducing the spread of infection is priority so keep those hands away from the area involved!

We all have a preferred method of strangulation……from the tea tree burn to the two finger vice grip.Some even suggest using a combination of rubbing alcohol and sea breeze……not sure how to capture and apply the sea breeze, despite my proximity to it. There is certainly a dearth of creative home remedies out there!

A good starting point is to include good cleansing hygiene ,which means using a gentle cleanser containing Salicylic Acid and a non oily Zinc based sunscreen or moisturiser. Salicylic acid acts as a keratolytic, bacteriocide and antinflammatory agent and Zinc posesses the ability to help speed up the healing process. The regular changing of bedlinen and towels is also of benefit.

For more severe cases, in clinic treatments may include superficial peels and llight based therapies to assist in the reduction of lesions. The use of isotretinoins, oral/ topical antibiotics and retionoids may also be considered in difficult to manage cases,however this should be balanced with the risks and side effects associated with these treatment options.

Patience and compliance are your friends when tackling this condition and results may be prolonged taking as long as 8 weeks for results.

Acne Is a multlifactorial condition meaning there are a number of contributing factors including genetics, hormones, enviromental (humidity and skin care products),medication and diet.

Acne is diagnosed into three categories -mild, moderate and severe according to the number of lesions involved and these factors should be considered when investigating treatment options with your Dr or Dermal Clinician. It is also important to remembet to consider treatments already tried.

The Triangle of Death, an urban myth….?

The Triangle of Death is no urban myth! The area spans from the corners of the mouth to the bridge of the nose. The potential exists for the spread of an infection to the brain from a pimple being squeezed in this triangle. This is possible due to the special nature of the venous supply to the nose and surrounding area and proximity to the meninges (the membrane protecting the brain), via the cavernous sinus, so best to avoid using the ‘vice grip’ here!

But it’s no myth Acne can be disfiguring and emotionally damaging. It is most prevalent during the angst ridden teenage years when the hormone Androgen is rampant. Androgen increases the production of oil in the sebaceous glands. Together a build up of epidermal cells (creating a plug), this increased oil production, bacteria and inflammation combine to form a pimple.

So lets have that funeral……

Plenty of treatment options are available depending on the severity of the condition……squeezing is not one of them! Heres some tips…….

gentle cleansing x 2 daily
non oily moisturisers/zinc base sunscreen
diet- there is some evidence to suggest a low GI diet may help with some Acne sufferers
Don’t battle the beast on your own seek help from your Dermal Clinician, Dr or Pharmacist

For more detailed professional advice and treatment options for Acne -or simply to ask me a question-please visit www.ASkinSolutions.com.au