WHEN FAT TURNS TO THIN – What happens to stretched skin?

February 7, 2016December 15, 2016Leave a comment

Hellooooo blog old friend, I’ve missed you over the holidays! I’m excited to be back on board with my first blog of the New Year even though it’s now February.

Like many, I made New Year resolutions that I resolutely intend on keeping – that is I hope to keep! Hope is key…..but not a good plan! And not to be a Dorothy the Downer but sadly 30% of us will have jumped ship on our resolutions before the end of February.

In first place for the most commonly made New Years resolution is the wish to lose weight which shouldn’t really surprise us when you consider 1/3 of all Aussies are overweight.

The societal wish to lose weight is sooo popular, TV shows tracking weight loss journeys are screened prime time with enormous followings….Aussies love a success story!

Depicted in the these personal 12 week weight loss journeys are people wanting to shed large amounts of unwanted weight, striving against fellow overweight contestants to undergo the largest weight loss in exchange for a cash prize. Whilst they may succeed in losing their excess poundage, what happens to the housing (skin) which once accommodated their previous body shape?

People who go on to lose extreme amounts of weight in a short time may find their skin’s elasticity can’t keep pace with their rapidly diminishing body, resulting in excess skin. Loose folds of stretched skin can lead to unpleasant psychological and physical consequences such as poor self body image, chaffing, pain and make the prospect of buying clothes more difficult.

Previous Biggest Loser contestant Sheridan Wright says ‘My excess skin bothered me a lot. It was uncomfortable when I was training, and when I dressed I had to wear some miracle “hide it all” underwear or fold my stomach into my jeans like an origami paper crane,’ .

Bouncing back…..

Skin by nature is elastic and is able to cope with moderate shift changes in weight such as pregnancy, springing back into shape after birth. In the case of extreme weight gain or loss this ability is reduced resulting in excessive skin and Striae Distensae (stretch marks).

Fibroblasts are cells in the skin which produce collagen and elastin fibres. Together they form the connective tissue and supporting structure within skin. These fibres provide strength and elasticity, accommodating shifts in weight change. Some studies show with extreme weight gain, although strength is not compromised, elasticity may be.

Our skin may lose it’s ability to spring back secondary to a number of factors including age, genetics, sun exposure, how quickly the weight is lost (the faster the weight is lost, the less time the skin has to bounce back), and also the length of time it’s been stretched.

Getting rid of the ‘Ring of skin’!

Commonly asked questions when managing excess skin after extreme weight loss.

Can exercise help?

Maintaining regular exercise and an healthy diet is an important factor in creating a great foundation over which the skin drapes but sadly it won’t assist in the contraction of loose skin.

Are there non-surgical options?

Larger areas of excess skin are unable to be treated non-surgically effectively but small areas may be targeted with fractional laser and ultrasound modalities helping to tighten loose skin.

Can I get rid of stretch marks?

Unfortunately there are no treatments for stretch marks which are 100% effective.

In-clinic modalities such as dermabrasion , chemical peels , light/laser based therapies and prescription topical retinoic acid are treatment options which may assist in minimising the appearance of stretch marks.

Will my skin return to it’s former shape prior to weight gain ?

Everyone’s skin is different and contraction of the skin is dependant on many factors including area of involvement (some areas of the body respond better than others) and recovery of elasticity. Some areas may take up to 2 years to improve and other areas may never regain their original shape.

Am I a candidate for Body contouring surgery?

Surgical removal of loose skin is a major undertaking and should http://www.cialispharmaciefr24.com/cialis-vente-libre-pharmacie-france/ not be considered lightly. Candidates must have maintained a stable weight for 6 months and be in good health to facilitate optimal wound healing.

Considering surgery for loose skin is a personal decision and best made in consultation with a plastic surgeon who will help outline appropriate treatment options, the likelihood and extent of a favourable result and any potential complications.

Will there be scarring AFTER SURGERY?

The simple answer is yes there will be! Brutal I know! But where there is cutting involved there will always be scarring. The amount of scarring depends on the area of involvement, amount of skin removed and genetics (skin type) and the health of your skin.

What are the types of body contouring surgeries performed?

If there is an excessive amount of loose skin, causing discomfort or is worrisome, surgery may be the only option. Tummy tucks, lower body lifts (a tummy tuck combined with an outer thigh and buttock lift), arm lifts, breast lifts, and thigh lifts as some of the procedures used to treat excess skin.

What are the risks of surgical removal?

The undertaking of any surgery carries inherent risks and complications including scarring, infection or even death.

Will it always be a permanent reminder?

Some contraction of the skin envelope can be expected for about 2 years after a stable weight is reached after which little change is likely to occur and plastic surgery may be necessary to satisfy patients’ needs and restore body image.

Is it as simple as Loving the skin you’re in?

Not everyone who has shed enormous amounts of weight opt for treatments for the removal of excess skin. For some, weight loss alone is the end of the journey but for those who are unhappy with their appearance, seeking out a sympathetic Plastic Surgeon may help you when considering your options.

Do you have a weight loss journey you’d like to share?

AskinSolutions x

YOU BOOZE, YOUR SKIN LOSES – Don’t be caught ‘red faced’ this Xmas!

December 21, 2015September 8, 2016Leave a comment

Not ‘grinching’ on your xmas but……alcohol can wreak havoc on our skin, triggering rashes, dryness, even dull and lifeless skin.

It’s no secret Santa’s favourite colour is red. The suit, the rosy red cheeks…..he rocks red!

Those rosy cheeks however, are not from scaling chimneys Xmas eve, rather are more likely a result of imbibing in refreshments generously left out for him and his reindeers by grateful families in exchange for presents.

Fact: Santa has alcohol triggered Rosacea!

Like Santa it’s difficult to resist ‘cheering’ over the silly season but if you want to avoid Rudolphs’ glowing nose it might pay to moderate your alcohol intake and follow a few sensible ‘tippling tips’ this Xmas.

How does alcohol affect our skin?

Alcohol contains congeners, chemical substances produced during the fermentation process, which gives alcohol its unique taste, smell and colour.

Heads up! the darker the liquor the more congeners it contains and the greater kick to your hangover!

Not only are the congeners in alcohol affecting our skin, it ‘s the added sugars, salts and other impurities swirled together with those festive swizzle sticks mixing the perfect ‘molotov skin cocktail’!

If you booze your skin loses!

Alcohol…

Dehydrates the skin by acting as a diuretic, making your kidneys work harder with increased trips to the toilet and giving the skin a dry,sallow appearance.

Prevents important vitamins and minerals required for skin health from being absorbed. Specifically vitamins A and B are destroyed by alcohol.

Is a vasodilator causing facial capillaries to dilate, giving the ruddy appearance Santa makes fashionable annually.

Interrupts our REM sleep making us more likely to wake early, feeling tired.

Increases our sugar/salt intake when adding mixers to drinks, creating systemic inflammation, skin ageing and the appearance of bloating.
May cause acne by increasing insulin levels in the blood and inflammation in the body.

Can trigger skin conditions such as psoriasis and rosacea

Damages the liver, potentially leading to cirrhosis and jaundice – a yellow discolouration of the skin

Tips to keep you ‘drinking with the enemy’!

Maintain hydration and keep your fluids up!

Hydration is what keeps the cellular processes in our body functioning optimally. For every alcoholic drink your body expels 4 glasses of water! Its recommended to alternate every 1-2 alcoholic drinks with a glass of water.

Avoid carbonated drinks as the bubbles can hasten the effects of alcohol!

Drink moderately!

‘Drunk brides don’t look pretty’, kept me sober at my wedding….imagine you’re the bride, this will help you moderate your drinking!

Downsize the size of your drinks!

Replace those ‘2 handed wine buckets’ with a smaller glass …keep a free hand for food!

Resist topping up early!

Refill your glass only when empty

Enjoy those ‘devils on horseback’!

Xmas is as much about the food so dig in!

Food helps to slow down the absorption of alcohol!

Load up on foods with high water content such as watermelon!

Hit the rocks!

Pop some ice into your drinks, this will help to dilute your drinks and aid hydration

Alcohol and skin are definitely not besties but Xmas is a time for eating drinking and merrymaking so if you want your skin luminescent rather Rudolph red then stick to the plan ….hydration and moderation!

C’mon it’s time to get a little silly!

Merry Xmas and thank you to everybody for the wonderful support this past year! Keeping skincare simple is what ASkinSolutions is all about.I hope you’ve enjoyed reading my blogs as much as I’ve enjoyed writing them?

Ps; Dear Santa, ….It’s water for you this year!

ASkinSolutions x

DON’T GET SLIP SLAP SLOPPY WITH SUNSCREEN !

November 29, 2015September 11, 20162 Comments

Summer lovin-skin cancer not so much!

With an early kick off to summer and soaring temps it’s an important reminder to apply sunscreen correctly…..yes there is a technique!

I’ve shared my 13 top sunscreen tips to keep you Sunsmart over summer!

The Cancer Council launched it’s recent Sunsmart campaign of ‘National Skin Cancer Action Week’ providing preventative guidelines and the correct technique of sunscreen application, highlighting the importance of being Sunsmart.

Telling the kids to apply sunscreen is a bit like telling them not to run around the pool; what starts in fun ends in tears! Or worse skin cancer!

A recent study found only 30% of women and 15% of men apply sunscreen before going out into the sun….no surprises… 2/3 Aussies get skin cancer before the age of 70.

What will it take?

Disappointingly, another study shows, for some, even with a previous diagnosis of skin cancer it wasn’t enough to get a lather up!

Dermatologists agree that most people aren’t aware of the correct application technique, nor that reapplication is necessary for adequate protection, or that sunscreen products vary in their directions of usage.

How much is enough?

7 teaspoons or 35mls is enough sunscreen to keep you covered!

Experts advise applying sunscreen liberally to exposed sites 15 to 30 minutes before going out into the sun, followed by reapplication of sunscreen to exposed sites 15 to 30 minutes after sun exposure begins.

This reapplication during sun exposure is key to providing optimal sun protection and a tip most sunlovers aren’t aware of.

Active sunlovers remember sweating, swimming and rubbing may remove sunscreen so keep that tube handy for reapplication!

I keep a couple scattered throughout the house…. under the sink in the kitchen and in the bathroom. Keeping it in the bathroom means it doubles as my body moisturiser post shower. Like any skin care product, applying to damp skin makes sunscreen more easily absorbed and if clothing moves around during sun exposure, you’ve got it covered! Keeping a tube in the kitchen, the busiest room of the house, means I can supervise and police application…..everyone’s gotta eat !

My top 13 tips

1. Shake the bottle before use as this mixes the ingredients evenly throughout the sunscreen

2. Check the expiration date-if there is a change of consistency ,colour then chuck it; like most things left in the car, they expire! Once the sunscreen reaches 30 degrees and above, the ingredients become inactive.

3. Choose the sunscreen which best suits your skin type or activity .If your activity sees you outside for extended periods or in the water, ensure you use a water resistant broad spectrum 50+ protection, reapplying every 40-80mins.

4. When applying sunscreen to your face, a sunscreen designed specifically for the face often has a higher SPF value and is less irritating to the eyes.

5. A shot glass or 35mls is a good guide of how much you’ll need to cover exposed areas, be generous, rubbing the sunscreen into the skin until it’s no longer white.

6. If you have oily skin or suffer from acne, keep away from thicker sunscreens favouring instead a zinc based which has healing benefits in addition to it’s sunscreen properties.

7. Play particular attention to the tops of ears, back of the neck, feet, and even even the part in your hair….anything which is exposed to the sun; Bob Marley died from melanoma underneath his big toe nail!

8. Wear clothing designed to block the sun…thin clothing such as a T-shirt only offers a UV protection of 7.

9. Application 20-30 minutes before you go into the sun and then again 15-30 mins after sun exposure begins. Titanium and zinc based sunscreens offer immediate protection.

10. Time poor? I advise my clients to buy a sunscreen which doubles as a daytime moisturiser, forming part of their daily skin care routine.

11. Spent a bit of time on your makeup and don’t fancy reapplying sunscreen over the top during the day? Colorscience make a great mineral based powder which provides broad spectrum water resistant 50+ sun protection, combined with a great makeup finish…whats not to love?

12. Hand washing removes sunscreen….just a reminder!

13. The use of insect repellants can reduce the efficacy of sunscreens by 33% – reapply more frequently and with a higher SPF.

Sun damage is a creeper, accumulating over time, which is why many Aussies are often diagnosed with some form of skin cancer later in life. It’s a case of ‘if you snooze’ in the sunscreen game…..’you lose’!

Rain hail or shine….no excuses….dont get – Slip Slap Sloppy.Lather up liberally and often when it comes to applying sunscreen!

Remember the best sunscreen is the one you’ll use!

ASkinSolutions x

photo credit Florian Sommet www.askinsolutions.com.au

MICRONEEDLING – THE POINTY END OF SKIN CARE !

November 10, 2015December 16, 20162 Comments

Microneedling or collagen induction therapy is not new but in the non-surgical skin care arena, it is definitely on trend and fast becoming the ‘sharpest tool in the skin care shed’ for 2015 !

Microneedling is not only reserved for the rich and famous. Approximately $400 per treatment for the face makes it affordable. Microneedling’s claims of skin rejuvenation, scar reduction and antiaging, together with the advantages of less pain and downtime than light based therapies, has the masses ‘signing up’ with/for a ‘Dermapen®’ treatment.

Kim K’s famous ‘Vampire Facial’ threw microneedling into the spotlight when she combined the treatment with her own platelet rich plasma (PRP), which was reinfused back into her skin via the micro columns created by the microneedles, to enhance collagen production.

Breaking down the barriers….

The penetration of topical skin care has always been up for debate; it argues against the primary function of the skin as a barrier which prevents skin care from being readily absorbed. Microneedling offers a solution. Topical agents may be better absorbed through the micro channels created by the needles into the skin, targeting specific skin care needs with greater results.

What you need to know if you’re microneedlephobic !

Microneedling systems are simply hand held devices which are either battery or cord operated with stainless steel needles embedded in their tip. The microneedles range in length between 0.5 – 3.0 mm with bevelled or flat edged tips.

All microneedling devices work on the same principal; puncturing the skin with micro needles.

Dermapen®, Dermastamp® and Dermaroller® are a few of the brands which produce microneedling devices, and systems. These devices are designed to puncture the skin, without injuring the epidermis, producing microchannels of trauma. These microchannels induce a wound healing cascade.

Part of the ‘healing cascade’ involves the body filling these microscopic wounds with cells which produce collagen and elastin, resulting in improved skin texture, firmness as well as a reduction in pore size and scars.

Dr Tina Alster,clinical professor of dermatology, Georgetown University Hospital, Washington DC says ‘it is both affordable for dermatologists and patients’ and is seeing impressive results, similar to those seen with fractionated lasers when treating wrinkles and ‘without the heat and risk of post inflammatory hyper-pigmentation’.

The devices…

The Dermaroller® has tiny needles embedded into a roller device which is rolled over the skin in varying angles and are commonly sold as in-home devices.

The problem with in- home roller devices are, they have needles 1/3 length of professional use systems, penetrating the skin at an angle and if not used carefully, create unwanted trauma by nicking the skin with the rolling action, increasing the risk of infection. Improper cleaning and sterilising of in home devices contributes to an increased risk of infection.

Application of skin care after in-home microneedling treatments may also carry an increased risk of irritation or ‘foreign body reaction’ created by ingredients in skincare, which may take a long time to resolve.

but wait there’s more…

Healthy skin requires a balance of 2 types of collagen – type 1 and 3 . The repetitive injury caused by an in home Dermaroller® used 2-3 times a week can lead to an inbalance and an over production in type 1 collagen, resulting in unhealthy looking skin; as it never gets an opportunity to complete the healing process.

The Dermapen® looks like a motorised pen with a circular head, embedded with adjustable and single use surgical steel needles.

The Dermastamp® looks and works like a Dermapen® but with a larger head, with more needles protruding. Like a tattoo gun without ink the many needles of the dermastamp are stamped into the skin.®

the treatment….what to expect !

A topical numbing agent is first applied and will take 30-45 mins to take effect.

An applicaton of an antioxidant, human growth factor serum or topical agent tailored specifically to the skin’s needs is applied before a non-conductive gel or hyularonic acid which assists the device to glide over the skin in multiple passes. The multiple passes may result in some easily controllable pinpoint bleeding.

Post treatment the micro channels will close within 60-90 mins and skin will feel warm, tight, itchy with some redness. The redness generally subsides within 3 days.

Adhering to the after care instructions will reduce the risk of complications and optimise the treatment’s results.

The benefits…

Cost effective
Little or no downtime
Able to be used in conjunction with other treatments such as peels, microdermabrasion and resurfacing modalities
Effective treatment option for acne scars, skin rejuvenation and anti-aging
Able to treat areas which are unable to be treated by lasers and peels, such as around the eyes
No heat cialis dapoxetine – reducing the risk of post inflammatory hyper pigmentation
Can be performed on all skin types
Can be used all over the body
Best results are seen after 2 – 4 treatments at 4 – 6 week intervals

What can go wrong ?

Overzealous treatments may result in scarring, hyper-pigmentation,infection and skin irritation.

Who isn’t a candidate for microneedling ?

Whilst most skin types are suitable for microneedling, people suffering skin infections, recent outbreak of herpes simplex, active acne, eczema, rosacea psoriasis or warts are not candidates for microneedling.

The verdict ?

Even with the current lack of evidence and studies supporting microneedling’s claims of skin rejuvenation, scar reduction and antiaging I can certainly understand the popularity of microneedling and anticipate future studies proving its benefits.

ASkinSolutions x

Have you had a micro needling treatment, i’d love to hear from you?

FROM VALENTINO TO VITILIGO

October 11, 2015November 11, 2016Leave a comment

Recently strutting the catwalk at this years New York fashion week was newest model sensation Winnie Harlow: aka Chantell Young- Brown.The 20-year-old Canadian model first making headlines when she competed in America’s nxt top model.

Headline making because not only is she strikingly beautiful but she also suffers from an acquired skin disorder called Vitiligo.

The most common onset age of Vitligo ranges from 10-30 years of age. Whilst Winnie was first diagnosed when she was just 4 years old, she recalls growing up in Toronto, being bullied – not so now – with fans all over the world using makeup to mimic her look!

Far from the bullying childhood taunts of ‘cow and zebra’, Winnie is now celebrating her diversity, thanks to a lucrative contract with fashion label Desigual , and has gone on to become the spokeswoman for Vitiligo sufferers with fans now applying makeup to mimic her look.

Whilst Michael Jackson –a Vitlitgo sufferer himself -sang ‘It doesn’t matter if you’re black or white’ ….for some sufferers it does matter!

Whilst Winnie is comfortable in her own skin, not all sufferers share this confidence, with a high incidence of depression being diagnosed amongst sufferers.

So what is it?

leuko = white / derma = skin

Vitiligo presents with milky white areas of depigmentation increasing in size and migrating to other areas of the body. This depigmentation occurs when the melanocytes, which produce skin colour, cease functioning normally. Originating on the face, hands and bony prominences such as knees and elbows, these depigmented patches affect up to 2% of the population worldwide and seems to be more prevalent in darker skin types.

It’s origin is not fully understood but a lot of studies support a diagnosis of an autoimmune disorder.

In addition to the autoimmune component of Vitiligo it may also be triggered by sunburn, stress, genetics, viral infections or physical trauma to the skin.

There are 2 types of treatment options available for Vitiligo – surgical and non-surgical. As with most diseases early intervention is often the most successful when it comes to Vitiligo.

Non- surgical

Phototherapy

the skin is exposed to UVB light 2-3 times a week ( not consecutive days )
may be used safely in children.
a 2009 study showed taking oral Vit E may increase the effectiveness of UVB phototherapy
is widely used and can result in satisfactory repigmentation in up to 70% of patients when an early diagnosis is made.

adverse side effects – temporary itching and dry skin

Photochemotherapy

involves the use of psoralens in combination with exposure to UVA light
psoralens increase the skin’s sensitivity to UV light and.the absorption of UV rays —
psoralens may be taken orally or applied topically followed by exposure to UV light
2-3 treatments per week and anywhere from 50 – 300 treatments are needed for repigmentation

adverse side effects – an increased risk of skin cancer; nausea sometimes associated with taking oral psoralens; sunburn type reactions; freckling

Immune mediators

topical creams containing calcineurin inhibitors; 0.1% tacrolimus and 1% pimecolimus applied twice daily
their mechanism of action is to prevent the body’s T cells attacking and destroying it’s own melanocytes (pigment containing cells)
prevents the inflammatory responses.
alternatives to topical steroids due to efficacy and lack of side effects.

Steroid therapy

topical steroidal creams applied twice daily for up to 1 year

adverse side effects – skin atrophy or thinning of the skin; the addition of Vit A with steroidal cream may help to reduce skin atrophy .

Depigmentation therapy

should be carefully considered as depigmentation is a permanent treatment option.
results may take from 3 months to a year
twice daily application, topical cream containing, monobenzone. –
depigmentation is gradual and achieved through the destruction of the melanocytes.
bleaches the unaffected skin blending the patches

Adverse reactions – increased risk of skin cancer; sun safety must be adhered to at all times to avoid sunburn; redness, swelling, itching and dry skin

Laser Therapy

quicker response time
used in conjunction with Vit D

Skin Camouflage

mild cases makeup may be used to disguise the depigmented patches
avoidance of tanning which may darken the surrounding skin.

Micropigmentation

similar technique to tattooing
colour matching is poor
colour fading over time

Surgical treatment options

grafting and transplanting skin from non affected areas
up to 85% of sufferers have seen repigmentation
longevity is unknown.

Alternative options – Chinese Medicine

treatments include the use of psoralens in conjunction with UVA therapies
herbal preparations targeting autoimmune disorders

For support and worth checking out if you want more information …

https://www.facebook.com/The-Vitiligo-Girl-TJ-151344275055276/timeline/

https://www.vitiligosupport.org

The treatment options I’ve listed are treatments cited from a review article ,Yanfei Zhang et al ‘Vitiligo nonsurgical treatment:a review of latest treatment researches’ Dermatologic Therapy, Vol. 27, 2014, 298–303 accessed 10th October 2015

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ASkinSolutions x

If you have a skin health question you need answered drop me a line!

ARE ANTI-OXIDANT SUPPLEMENTS TOO FREE RADICAL?

September 18, 2015September 14, 2016Leave a comment

It seems that everybody is looking for the new miracle cure to ageing. This search for the “elixir of life” is not a new concept. The high dose antioxidant supplements are yet another attempt to slow the ageing process and prevent the negative outcomes and chronic diseases that accompany it. But are they doing your body more harm than good?

Ever since the idea of reactive oxygen species (ROS) within the body and the harmful effects they cause, ways to counteract and neutralise them have flooded the market. ROS are electron seeking free radicals that break down proteins and cell membranes within the body. This cell and DNA damage is directly linked to the ageing process. Oxidative damage has links to things like skim damage and degeneration, degenerative disorders and some cancers. ROS are produced both by the body and from external stimulants. The most common forms of free radical production are metabolism, inflammation (most commonly from excess body fat), air pollution, smoking, UV light and radiation.

The high dose antioxidant theory is a theory based on using high dose antioxidant supplements, as opposed to dietary dose in food, to scavenge all the free radicals in the body produced from both endogenous and exogenous sources. These supplements are an attempt to avoid or slow the ageing process and the associated chronic diseases. The power of antioxidants has been at the base of the supplement, neutraceutical and anti-ageing industry for the last 30 years. This is not to say that antioxidants themselves are not beneficial in slowing the ageing process, it is just in the supplement form that one must be cautious. The high doses that antioxidants are being marketed and sold to consumers can be more than 1000X more than one person needs.

There is little clinical evidence for efficacy of these supplements and in some cases toxicity is a very real risk. In smokers, beta-carotene supplementation showed an increase in risk of lung cancer. The body has its own pathways in place to cope with antioxidants. We need some levels of ROS in order to activate these pathways and it is possible that the high levels of antioxidants in supplements reduces the activation of these very effective pathways. It is possible that in high doses antioxidants can actually allow ROS levels to increase.

So how do you get these antioxidants in healthy levels? Whole foods are the safest and most balanced way to obtain antioxidants in your diet. The compounds in food are multi-targets for multi factorial diseases. The combination of vitamins, minerals and phytochemicals in the food also allow for better absorption and eliminates the risk of toxicity. A diet rich in a variety of food allows for synergy of constituents as opposed to the isolation in high dose supplements. Being able to substitute a healthy diet for a pill is still a fantasy with no real clinical efficacy or substantiated claims.

Antioxidants are in lots of delicious and easy to access foods. Almost all plant foods (whole grains included) contain an assortment of antioxidants; berries, apples, green leafy vegetables… the list goes on. As a general rule deeper and more varied fruit and vegetables tend to have a higher level of antioxidants.

Although not a quick fix pill, the safest and most effective way to get these anti-ageing antioxidants is through a balanced and healthy diet.

Ellen Foster has a Bachelor of Exercise and Nutrition Sciences from the University of Queensland. Ellen is passionate about health and wellness and is focussed on furthering her academic studies in Medicine.

YOU ASKED FOR IT…The good, the bad and the VERY bad!

September 9, 2015September 8, 2016Leave a comment

www.askinsolutions.com.au blog systemic skin lightening

YOU ASKED FOR IT…the good the bad and the very bad!

I love Instagram and those closest to me would even go as far to say that I’m addicted. It plays a valuable role in the branding of my business and one I really enjoy!

Mostly it’s the interaction with fellow Insta- users. I love helping them make informed choices when choosing skin care, steering them towards a product benefitting their skin type, helping find solutions for worrying skin conditions or providing tips related to skin-health, assisting them on their skin care journey.

Regularly popping up are questions for treatment options when treating pigmentation. Recently a question that piqued my interest was an enquiry about the efficacy of the Intravenous use of Vitamin C and Glutathione for skin lightening…. What I found was disturbing!

Thankyou for the question @muchkingrace, here are my findings….

Skin lightening is very popular amongst Asian cultures in which lighter skins are often considered desirable and are associated with with social and economic status and it appears systemic skin lightening is becoming dangerously more popular – sometimes to the detriment of their own health.

Background…. identifying the role of Glutathione (GSH) and Vitamin C in skin lightening.

Melanin is a pigment produced by melanocytes ( pigment producing skin cells) when the enzyme tyrosinase is oxidised. Melanin determines our skin colour and some skins produce more melanin than others giving the appearance of a more ‘olive’ complexion and darker skin shades.

Both Vitamin C and Glutathione function as antioxidants and work synergistically within the body to help neutralise the formation of free radicals. Glutathione is commonly combined with other agents like Vitamin C, which help to aid in its absorption.

Glutathione is synthesised endogenously which means the body produces it’s own supply in the liver when needed – one of many feedback systems in our bodies. Eating foods rich in lean meats, eggs, fruits ,vegetables and whole grains will stimulate the liver to produce Glutathione, raising the levels in our blood.

Read more about the super antioxidant Glutathione.

Glutathione has recently been used as an inhibitor of melanin in the cosmetics industry. In countries such as Japan and the Philippines, this product is the active ingredient in products such skin-whitening soaps. It’s ability to inhibit tyrosinase, an enzyme needed in the formation of melanin, is what makes it useful in skin lightening.

The role of Glutathione as a skin whitening agent was an accidental discovery when skin whitening was noticed as a side effect of large doses of Gluatathione being used in the management of illnesses such as Alzheimer’s disease, Parkinson’s disease, Multiple Sclerosis, Alcoholic Hepatitis and Chronic Fatigue Syndrome. These are the only indications where Glutathione can be used legally and in fact the FDA has banned its intravenous use due to reports of serious side effects such as skin rashes, Stevens Johnson syndrome, toxic epidermal necrolysis, derangement in thyroid, renal function and severe abdominal pain.

Enough side effects to put you off?

Intravenous Glutathione delivers very high doses directly into the systemic blood circulation, overloading the renal circulation and interrupting the body’s feedback system regulating its production.

The effects may be permanent and may increase the risk of skin cancer or permanent skin depigmentation resulting in Vitiligo

Vitamin C is a potent exogenous antioxidant used in Dermatology and skin care preparations. This means it needs to be acquired from our through foods rich in Vitamin C such as green leafy vegetables and fruits. It is a co-factor in collagen synthesis but it also has the ability to inhibit the action of tyrosinase, thereby similarly decreasing the formation of melanin. Vitamin C, when combined with Vitamin E has been found to have photo protective qualities and can protect against UV damage.

Toxic doses of Vitamin C are rare and the levels needed are 100-200 times the daily recommended dose. This gives Vitamin C a very high safety profile although diarrhea, headaches and kidney stones have been a reported side effect of prolonged high doses of Vit C.

Something else to consider….the intravenous administration and use of Glutathione for skin whitening is unauthorised and carries additional risks. As it is an illegal product it is unregulated and of unknown quality and sterility and may be administered by untrained people increasing the risk of serious infections, air embolism and transmission of blood borne viruses such as HIV and Hepatitis B.

Systemic skin whitening agents lack scientific evidence regarding their safety and efficacy and the FDA continues to ban their use until this can be established.

As a Dermal Clinician I am concerned with the adverse health implications of systemic skin lightening and would strongly recommend against this treatment option to anyone considering systemic skin lightening, favouring instead alternative treatment options, which are both safe and legal.

Approved and safer treatment options for skin lightening can be found in these links!

http://www.askinsolutions.com.au/#!LET-THERE-BE-LIGHT/cmbz/9EF014F1-7078-458B-8447-C3ADE83E6D10

http://www.askinsolutions.com.au/#!PEELING-GREAT/cmbz/4C854E86-1F26-49DA-B63A-96DDA6D48838

http://www.askinsolutions.com.au/#!melasma/cmj4

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LETS GET PHYSICAL AND CHEMICAL WITH EXFOLIATORS !

What and How …

Chemical Exfoliators

Alpha hydroxy acids( AHA) and beta hydroxy acids( BHA) are the most commonly recognised acids in skincare.Their mechanism of action differs slightly from each other.

Lactic, malic and glycolic acids are AHA’s and act by dissolving the ‘glue’ which binds the skin cells together. Some studies suggest there are also some stimulating effects on the dermis – an increase in collagen synthesis and glycosaminoglycans, both help in maintaining skin hydration.

Concentrations of up to 10% acids are used for in-home skincare products.

The most common BHA used in skin care is salicylic acid derived from the bark of the willow tree. Salicylic acid has keratolytic properties, meaning it dissolves keratin. Lipophilic or fat loving , it attaches itself to the oils in the skin helping it to penetrate further than it’s AHA cousins. Salicylic’s greatest properties are functioning as an anti-inflammatory/antibacterial, making it ideal when treating acne.

Concentrations of .05-2% are used in skin care.

By comparison in-clinic peels using AHA’s And BHA’s are in concentrations of 20% or higher for greater exfoliation.

Enzyme exfoliation is also popular amoungst skincare companies including bromelain, derived from pineapples, and papain derived from papaya-allergies from papain are very common so a patch test is recommended prior to use.

Physical Exfoliators

Physical or mechanical exfoliation refers to products containing small granules suspended in a gel, foam or cream formula, which gently buff or sand away dead cells. Ideally scrubs should contain small uniform shaped grains, with no sharp edges such as magnesium oxide crystals.

Throw away the ‘Aapri’ scrub and steer away from products containing walnut/apricot shell or peach pits as their irregular shape could potentially cause micro-tears in the skin or worse, even infection.

Dont forget your body; mitts/ loofahs/brushes are great body exfoliators. They can be used wet or dry and are an excellent way of increasing circulation bringing nutrients to the skin.

Ensure they are cleaned after each use or sun dried to reduce bacterial contamination.

Some cosmetic companies have cleverly combined both chemical and physical exfoliators = accelerating cell renewal whilst sloughing off the old cells. This is a great combination for acne sufferers but for some skins it maybe too irritating.

Tip: Why not use a cleanser/moisturiser containing AHA’s or BHAs in the morning then add a scrub in the evening where needed.

Is there a downside?

Well there could be….If you’re the overzealous kind, be careful, your enthusiasm might see you over exfoliating! Over treating with chemical exfoliators might irritate your skin resulting in dry, red and flaky skin, whereas over abrading with a scrub, may result in small microtears, leaving your skin vulnerable to infection.

Some skin conditions may also be exacerbated such as Rosacea, when using scrubs or chemical exfoliators . If irritation occurs, discontinue use until redness subsides.If redness persists and over the counter cortisone may benefit. Rule of thumb…… moderation! If you’re the ‘blushing sensitive‘ type, introduce slowly, gradually increasing your exfoliating frequency to 2-4 times a week.

What is key is choosing the correct exfoliator for your skin type.This may be a little trial and error in the beginning, don’t despair! A consultation with your skin therapist will save you time, money and potentially a skin irritation – it’s far better to be safe than sorry, or worse, frustrated!.

With correct skin diagnosis, pairing exfoliator with skin type will have you radiating healthy skin.

How often do you use an exfoliator?

Drop me a line, I’d love to hear from you

Susan x

COLLAGEN SUPPLEMENTS – Skin Food or Fad?

July 21, 2015October 22, 2015Leave a comment

The Greeks have been getting a bum rap of late. I may not engage them for financial advice but when it comes to Souvlaki, Zorba the Greek and Demis Roussos, no one does it better!

They also gave us ‘Kolla’ the Greek word for glue which gives Collagen it’s name.

Recently my social media feeds have been inundated with manufacturers of nutritional and cosmetic products marketing collagen supplements with claims of ‘healthier, younger skin, hair and nails’, #antiaging #beauty.

These expensive products are flying off the shelves in the same time it takes to whip out that plastic and pay wave!

In a previous blog ‘Hope in a Jar’ I discuss the large molecular size of collagen preventing it being absorbed by the skin. This means any topical application of collagen stays exactly where it’s applied; on the skin until it’s either rubbed or washed off! Whilst it can’t be absorbed by the skin, what about in the intestine?

Skin School!

Collagen is a protein made up of amino acids which helps give structure to the skin. Collagen makes up 30% of our body’s protein content and is found not only in skin but in bones, tendons and muscles.

Collagen together with elastin and keratin provide a strong elastic envelope for our bodies but as we age we see a slowing of metabolic processes including the synthesis of collagen. This decrease in collagen creates a loss of elasticity and firmness resulting in fine lines and wrinkles.

Fact….

Commensurate with an increase in age is a decline in collagen with a rate of 1% per year for women; this means by the time we reach 50 we’ve already lost 50% of our natural collagen.

Our environment plays a significant role in maintaining our collagen deposition. Stresses such as sun exposure, nutrition and pollutants all hastening the degradation of our collagen levels contributing to fine lines, sagging skin and loss of elasticity.

‘I am too much of a sceptic to deny the possibility of anything’–Thomas Henry Huxley

I, like a lot of consumers are sceptical (another Greek gift) as to, if any, the benefits of including supplemental collagen in our diets. Can drinking or eating hydrolysed collagen in addition to our normal dietary intake of protein, accelerate collagen synthesis within our bodies, enough to see a change in our skins? This is the hope of many consumers.

With an open mind, a capsule of scepticism and access to a medical library I’m ‘Sherlocking’ for some evidence-based studies in support of this #antiagingmiracle !

The premise of the manufacturers is these expensive collagen supplements are absorbed and broken down in the gut,transported via the bloodstream to the cells where they are used to synthesis collagen = bioavailability.

‘Bio availability is the degree to which a drug or other substance becomes available to the target tissue after administration.’

What are they?

Hydrolysed collagen forms the basis of the supplements and is created via the decomposition of collagen by a reaction with water molecules.

Collagen supplements are marketed in either tablet or powder, derived from the cartilage or scales from either marine or bovine sources and includes various combinations of vitamins and minerals. Vitamins C is often used as it is a cofactor in the synthesis of collagen and also for it’s anti-oxidant properties, The hydroxylation process breaks down the protein into amino acids which can be reassembled and used by the body.

Almost convinced but….

As often happens with skin care it’s difficult to find studies, without bias, supporting the claims of collagen supplement manufacturers.

I found a recent 2014 study suggesting ‘Pure Gold Collagen can turn back the hands of time’ with some convincing results, however this study was engaged by Minerva, the manufacturer of the supplement. The study suggests the increase in collagen is due to its ability to inhibit degradation of existing collagen whilst promoting new collagen –resulting in increased density.

Other studies have not been so favourable, questioning the bioavailability of supplements when compared to a diet rich in the nine amino acids needed by the body to synthesis collagen.

Side effects –

I was a little disappointed to learn there is little evidence supporting collagen supplements and their marketed role in anti-aging. I’ve learnt a more affordable, efficacious and healthier source of amino acids needed for collagen synthesis, is a diet rich in animal products such as cheese fish eggs milk and poultry, save your money and head for the ‘Department of Youth’ at your local market…Alice Cooper had the answer all along!

Retinoids and sunscreen remain the gold stamp in anti-aging skincare. Their ability to retard the degradation of collagen whilst increasing collagen production is well supported in evidence-based studies.

Have you tried Collagen Supplements, I’d love to hear from you?

A SIDE OF PEPTIDES WITH YOUR SKINCARE ?

June 11, 2015September 30, 2015Leave a comment

The Plat du Jour is anti-aging with a side of peptides…forget the calories and Bon Appetit !

This new kid has been around the anti-aging skin care block a few times.

Increasingly peptides are gaining in popularity and momentum driven by consumer demand for results driven skin care.

What are peptides and can the anti-aging claims made by cosmeceutical skin care companies that produce synthetic forms of these important compounds be supported by empirical evidence?

There are more than 25 different peptides routinely found in skin care products, all purporting to have different signallng roles in our skin.

Adding to the confusion is the polysyllabic ingredients listed on skin care labels. With names like palmitoyl oligopeptide and copper GHK/AHK, we scan the list looking for familiar parts of these hieroglyphics, not understanding their mechanism of action or even how to pronounce them correctly.

Without a science background it’s like looking for a corner in a round room…so its easy to understand how sophisticated marketing can bamboozle & persuade!

What are they?

Peptides behave as cell communicators.

Peptides are short chains of amino acids, which form the building blocks of proteins.

These chains are found in the basement layer of the skin, which divides and anchors the epidermis and dermis.

This important layer forms the supporting structure of the dermal matrix and is where collagen and elastin are synthesised.

Much ado about peptides….

The hyperbole surrounding peptides relates to their ability to communicate at the cellular level in both stimulating and repairing cells that are injured or degenerate as a normal part of the aging process.

Bio active peptides are naturally occurring in the skin and function at a cellular level promoting wound healing, photoprotection, photo-aging, as an inflammatory mediator and in the synthesis of collagen and elastin-the supporting structures of our skin.

An age-old equation….

Around the age of 40 our bodies’ ability to produce collagen and elastin slows, creating a thinner, weaker and less pliable dermal layer.

Though I may hear you cheer at “thinner” I warn you …it may be an unequal trade- weight loss for wrinkles!

‘Swimming with sharks’ or ‘the great white hope of anti-aging‘ ?

Cosmeceutical companies manufacturing synthetic peptides argue that in replicating a peptide, which harnesses and mimics the biological processes of their ‘peptide sisters’, they are creating a more stable and controllable peptide!

One of the synthetic peptides being produced by cosmetic chemical manufacturer Sederma is called Matrixyl . Matrixyl is a combination of 5 peptides all described as aiding in the synthesis of collagen and elastin.

Sederma claim that the 5 peptides restructure the dermal matrix by signaling new collagen and elastin to be produced.

Good news but how do we encourage the skin to absorb it?

Nanotechnology may be the answer!

The smaller the particle the better the penetration but that’s not the only thing to consider. The formulation or delivery system of the product needs to be able to negotiate both the skin’s acid mantle, and the normal barrier functions of the skin for it to be absorbed. Concentration levels of peptides in the product are also important, as absorption levels needed to affect cell communication may not be able to be achieved to produce effective results in the skin.

Like any new development in skincare the debate on the efficacy of peptides in skincare remain lively with little conclusive evidence supporting their use topically. Not to be overlooked is the anecdotal evidence of the happy consumers who have observed a reduction in fine lines and wrinkles after using products containing peptides.

‘What mankind can dream research and technology can achieve’

C Walter Lillihei

Should cosmeceutical companies be responsible if their products don’t meet their claims?

I’d love to hear your thoughts?

ASkinSolutions x