SKIN BEHAVING BADLY -STRESS and the SKIN!

May 27, 2015October 22, 2015Leave a comment

Dear Stress,

Lets breakup!

Breakups are always difficult, especially when it comes to getting rid of STRESSSSSS!

News flash… life is stressful !!!

Multi tasking means sprinting with scissors, traveling at 210 kms on the 8 lane freeway of life – too familiar?

Keeping all the balls in the air….. Juggling relationships, home, work, finances with little downtime from our organised chaos is cause enough for our skin to behave badly!

Sitting in a traffic jam, late for work or facing the imminent departure of my flight when I still havent parked the car, is enough to get my heart racing whilst sweating off my not so perfectly applied makeup. These physical symptoms are the result of the release of an hormone called cortisol.

Cortisol is released by our bodies to help us deal with stressful situations.

Whilst cortisol is beneficial to the body in the short term, it’s release over longer periods can trigger unfavourable skin conditions and have other damaging effects on your health

More and more frequently people are presenting with conditons known to be exacerbated by stress such as acne, rosacea, psoriasis, atopic dermatitis, eczema, hair loss and even an autoimmune disease called vitiligo (where areas of the skin becomes depigmented in patches), to Dermatologists who recognise there is a relationship between stress and skin. This frequent association between stress and skin disorders has led to the evolution of a new medical discipline called Psychodermatology.

Psychodermatology is the treatment of skin disorders using psychological and psychiatric techniques.

‘We all boil at different degrees’- Ralph Waldo Emerson, so understanding how to effectively deal with stress will help alleviate the skin conditions triggered by stress.

Stress can see our skin falling apart on us with broader health implications if we don’t find time to relax and give the body some downtime…easier said than done!

In the beginning….

In utero the skin and nervous system develop at the same time, holding hands, forming a partnership closely intertwined lasting our entire lives.

In times of stress the adrenal glands are triggered to release cortisol helping the body to-

Metabolise glucose in the body- needed for sprints of energy
Release insulin – maintaining blood sugar levels
Increase Immune function
Increase inflammatory response

On the flip side…

Chronic periods of stress and a constant release of Cortisol can have a deleterious effect-.

Impairment in cognitive performance
Suppression of thyroid function
Disordered blood sugar levels
Decreased bone density
Decreased muscle tissue
Increase in blood pressure
Decreased immunity and inflammatory response
Compromised wound healing

Definitely not what we need when dealing with stress related skin conditions!

What happens to our skin when we’re stressed?

In the case of acne and stress, cortisol is released, increasing oil production. Together with cortisol -induced lower immunity, decreased inflammatory response and reduced wound healing capabilities, suddenly we have the perfect environment for acne to flourish.

It can be a vicious cycle, the more stressed we become the more these conditions flare up and may worsen, the more they worsen or appear, the more anxious we become….so it makes sense to treat the underlying causes of skin conditions triggered by stress with a multifactorial approach.

Trying to apply the brakes on stress is like turning back the hands of time, near impossible but grabbing 5 mins here and there in our busy schedules might just be enough to make a difference and disturb the prolonged release of cortisol.

Off the treadmill and start by trying to access some anti-stress techniques and lifestlyle adjustments.

Eating foods with anti-inflammatory and healing benefits http://www.askinsolutions.com.au/#!healing-foods/clb8

Start small with snatched moments of downtime – be careful not to have unrealistic expectations of available time as you will stress even more if you can’t meet them
Recognising your stress triggers
Find your ‘Oprah Corner’ where you can zen out for 5 mins
Walking the dog – you know he’ll love it!
Why not try Yoga
Meditation and Minfulnesss
WaterWaterWater

BOTCHED IN BANGERS – The Real Cost of Medical Tourism

April 30, 2015September 4, 2016Leave a comment

Inspiration for Botched in Bangers arrived after reading an article in my local paper for a company spruiking their services for Medical Tourism and later enjoying a family dinner with the ‘Good Dr’ discussing his days events which included a patient presenting with severe complications arising from a recent breast augmentation procedure performed overseas ….. a subject both topical and provocative.

Definition-

Medical tourism or Health Tourism is the travel of people to another country for the purpose of obtaining medical treatment in that country.

Fact – This practice is growing exponentially 20-30% every year!

Australian health insurers are seeing opportunities, carving themselves a piece of the $300 million medical tourism pie, offering ‘health care packages’ of accommodation, transfers, medical consultations and airfares.

So why are people accessing care overseas?

For many the motivation to travel from developed to third world countries seeking medical treatments, is to gain immediate access to what they perceive as ‘high quality’ procedures at a fraction of the cost, with the only waiting times being in the gate lounge of an airport!

A recent study has suggested that only 40% of Australians considering procedures overseas seek health care advice before they head abroad. I’m both surprised and alarmed by this statistic.

I can see how easy is to be seduced by the lure of a new nose, resort/hospital stay, convalescing poolside with a champagne IV at 70% off what the equivalent procedure might cost in Australia

‘Australians are too casual’…

In the April issue of Australian Medicine magazine, a publication for the Australian Medical Association, discusses a draft proposal to increase public safety with a ‘7 day cooling off period’ for Adults seeking cosmetic procedures in Australia. This draft proposal is a response from the Australian Health Ministry’s Advisory council who warned that Australians are taking a ‘casual attitude to cosmetic surgery despite the significant risks and complications’.

Medical tourism is big business but at what cost?

With an increase in cosmetic procedures comes an increase in complications, not only overseas but here in Australia. Having your surgery at home means better accessing of postoperative care in the event of a complication arising. Australian taxpayers often fund post-operative complications, after patients return home to Australia seeking medical help in an already overly burdened health care system

Complications associated with any surgery are real, even when staying on home turf. Add air travel into the mix, risk of infection, anaesthetic complications and deep vein thrombosis (DVT). DVT has long been associated with air travel and recent surgery. These adverse outcomes can have devastating and long lasting impact on future health.

Informed Consent is a legal document and is vital, prior to any undertaking of surgical procedures overseas or in Australia, so it is alarming only 40% of us seek advice prior. Informed Consent means you understand all risks, benefits and alternative treatments available and agree to undertake the procedure regardless. This may be a high price to pay if something goes wrong!

Doctors believe it’s dangerous to combine holiday activities with procedural recovery and may contribute to a negative outcome.

It may not be best practice to combine waterskiing with breast augmentation. I’m being facetious but easy to understand Dr’s may be worried about patients confusing recuperation with recreation.

FROTOX – ICE ICE BABY !

April 15, 2015September 30, 2015Leave a comment

“Botox, I think, is poison, I would never put it into my face, and I’m needle-phobic. I spend a lot of time keeping my face out of the sun and taking care of my skin and wearing make- up”. -Joan Collins

For people like Joan, Frotox is fast gaining moment with the growing lifestlyle trend in all things healthy, organic and non-toxic. The ‘Organic Millennials’ want their faces to reflect their inner health and are looking for alternatives to BOTOX in the anti-aging Olympics!

A new cooler option is freezing your wrinkles, and it’s fast becoming an alternative to anti -wrinkle muscle relaxants.

Chillax…the answer is ‘Liquid Cold’!

Freezing temperatures have long been utilised in medicine. cryotherapy, lowering core body temp during surgery, pain management and more recently applications in anti-aging.

Iovera is a cryosurgical device and is the latest technology, touted as a toxic free option in the treatment of dynamic wrinkles. It is currently approved in Europe and undergoing trials in the US -unfortunately us Aussies will have to wait!

Iovera acts by harnessing Focused Cold Therapy (FCT).

FCT is used to block the signal released from the nerve to the muscle creating temporary relaxation of the muscle, which contributes to the formation of wrinkles – similar to the action of neurotoxic muscle relaxants.

Liquid Nitrogen (liquid cold) fills a closed ended needle sending a frozen jolt to the end of the needle, stunning the targeted nerve. The nerve stays temporarily paralysed for anywhere up to 4 months after which it ‘reenervates’ and the treatment needs to be repeated .

Dr. Vincent Wong who is an Harley St London Cosmetic Physician and regularly performs focused cold therapy, told The Daily Mail. “It’s a unique stand-alone treatment in its own right and shouldn’t be compared side-by-side with Botox or any botulinum toxins. Instead, we should think of it as an additional option available to people, especially those who do not want botulinum toxin injections or cannot have them due to medical reasons.

WEATHER REPORT – DRY WITH A CHANCE OF ECZEMA !

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12 Skin Care Tips to manage ‘Winters Itch’

It’s difficult for people not living in Noosa to picture us who do live here shivering by the fire in winter. I can assure you us ‘SunnyCoasters‘ feel the cold when the seasons turn!

With Winter on our doorstep, shorter days mean less sun and longer nights with temperatures sometimes plummeting to a chilly 0 degrees celsius…cold enough for us Sunnycoasters to break out the bedsocks.

Daytime peaks of 15 degrees celsius at 2pm, together with a formidable Westlerly wind has us beach babes layering up, replacing the cotton throw for a feather doona and cranking up the open fire…. pity worthy…maybe not!

I’m no ‘Winter Virgin’…I’ve served a ‘chilly apprenticeship’ living through Melbourne’s extreme weather patterns.

Melbourne see’s Mother Nature in her foulest of moods… I’ve served my time and have enjoyed the seasonal changes!

Winter also marks opportunities for skin care companies to spruik their ‘winter range’, anticipating perceived changes in skincare needs by consumers during the colder months but is skin care really seasonal or a clever marketing tool in order to sell more product ?

The answer is not necessarily! Not everyone needs to adapt his or her skin care routine because the colours of the leaves have changed.Certainly skin’s demands may vary slightly, or for some lucky ones not at all.

When it comes to skin care, you will know from my other posts, I like to take a KISS (keeping it simple stupid) approach.

ASkinSolutions’ 1. 2. 3 steps of skin care –

Cleanse
Treat/Manage
Protect

How do weather patterns influence the way our skin functions ?

Background…a tiny bit of A and P…

Skin functions as a Thermo Regulator and houses it’s very own climate control panel called the Hypothalamus situated in base of the brain. It’s job is to respond to the environment, cooling us in summer whilst retaining heat in winter.

In hot conditions the skin responds by initiating it’s cooling processes, stimulating the sweat glands to secrete fluid on the surface of the skin, cooling the skin when air passes over. Similarly when it’s cold, ‘goosebumps’ appear trapping warm air, keeping us warm – revision over!

Predictably, lets reason, less sweat and oil secretions occur in winter meaning less lubrication for your skin. With this in mind your skin appears drier, flakier or might even be predisposed to dry skin conditions such as eczema or psoriasis commonly triggered by seasonal changes.

Winter skin 101 out of the way….

Artificial heating/cooling have little or no humidity further contributing to a drying effect on the skin.

Tip; A good idea is to place a bowl of water in a corner of the room to try and combat the drying effect when using artificial heating/cooling.

The moisturising process sometimes gets overlooked as we hastily scramble into our clothes post shower in an effort to keep warm.

Tip; Why not take warm oil baths to help lubricate the skin

Excess and restrictive clothing worn in winter can also irritate the skin. Synthetic fibres may contribute to irritation by not allowing airflow and providing a moist environment for bacteria to flourish.

Tip; Why not try under garments made of natural fibres such as merino wool.

Should we change our skin care according to the seasons?

Whilst it’s not necessary to change your whole routine, a few minor adjustments or tweaking is all that might be needed. Maintain your routine and make adjustments to your cleanser and treat/manage for a drier skin type if needed.

TIP : If it’s Wet Dry it, If it’s Dry Wet it !

12 Skin Care Tips to Manage ‘Winter’s Itch’

1. Foaming cleansers can dry the skin with their foaming properties, substitute with an oil based cleanser. They cleanse the skin without stripping it of it’s protective acid mantle.

2. When I refer to Treating/Managing, I mean to address any concerns or changes you may have noticed due to the change in seasons. Layering serums containing antioxidants underneath your moisturizer are a great way to treat specific skin concerns.

3. An emollient-based moisturizer; a formulation or ‘oil in water’ will keep the skin feeling lubricated. For some it may be a period of adjustment to an heavier cream.

4. When purchasing products include the ‘skin vitamins ADCEK ’ in the list of ingredients.. The B group vitamins are also great in helping to reduce an irritated skin.

5. Avoid super hot baths and showers. In an effort to keep warm we tend to lengthen the time of showers and increase the temp -don’t!

6. Exfoliate 2-3 times a week allowing for better penetration of moisturises and products whilst removing flakiness.

7. To get the maximum benefit from your product apply to damp skin enabling better penetration.

8. Up your intake of oily fish containing essential fatty acids omega 3s and 6’s such as nuts and whole grains flaxseed oil –these are a great resource help reduce the symptoms of a stressed skin.

9. If you suffer from winter triggered Eczema, try a topical occlusive (heavier oil in water ) cream with antin flammatory properties. If the symptoms persist ,over the counter hydrocortisone cream .05% is available off prescription and may be of benefit until the symptoms are relieved.

10. Psoriasis can be particularly troublesome in the winter months and treatment should be carried out in consultation with your Dr.

11. Allergy face (dry puffy eyes, blotchy skin),the fault of the seasonal winds blowing irritants such as pollens around. An anti -histamine is the best way combat allergens, or cool compresses to reduce allergy symptoms.

http://www.eyehealthweb.com/puffy-eyes/ Dr William Goldstein discusses ways in which you can reduce puffy eyes safely.

12. Maintaing hydration in the winter months is often overlooked in favour of warm drinks. Consider drinking herbal teas alternating with water at room temperature.

Visit the Hydration Calculator to assess if you are drinking enough water based on your activity levels .

Further reading Associate Professor Greg Goodman says “Vitamin A is still the most important repair mechanism to use at night”!Don’t forget ASkinSolution’s most valuable foundation of skin care – PROTECT !

ASkinSolutions x

A CHANGE OF HEART

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Tattoos today are seen as cutting edge fashionable, especially amongst the Millennial Generation . Sporting a full sleeve tattoo peeking unapologetically beneath a well cut business suit doesn’t attract the gasps it once would.

Confession…As a child my family’s attititude to tattoos were… well…they were worn by undesirables.

So how did Popeye become my afternoon tea hero when he wore the mark of the undesirables ?

In spite of his ink I stayed true, seeing Popeye for what he was ” I am what I am!” A true Hero!

Not sure how I reconciled in my young mind that it was ok for Popeye, to wear a tattoo ?

I wonder if I would have tolerated Olive Oil sporting a sneaky butterfly escaping from underneath her sundress? My childhood affections may not have been so loyal.

Thankfully maturity has diminished these long held misconceptions and I conclude ‘Nice’ people like and get tattoos!

Confession – I still reach for my gun when I see a badass neck tattoo.

Everyday I see beautiful artworks (and duds) adorning nice normal employed people who happen to like tattoos. I see these walking, talking art installations and I love some of what I see and some are owners whom I love!

A favourite actor of mine, Johnny Depp says ,“My body is my journal, and my tattoos are my story.”

What if Johnny’s story included a few typos, I wonder how he would feel then, or if he wanted to rewrite his history…..that journal is beginning to look a little busy!

Another unknown author wrote in praise of tattoos – “Your body is a temple!”

But how long can you live in the same ‘temple’ before you feel the need to redecorate?

Taking this a bit further… to me it’s like wearing the same clothes day in day out, at some stage those clothes might seem a little dated.

What of the parents who involve their children in the process, not only in the application of the tattoos but in tattooing their children’s doodles indelibly on their bodies. I can’t imagine tattooing myself with my children’s uncomplimentary kindy drawings of oversized head, huge eyes and stick figure….ok maybe the stick figure!

1 in 4 of people in Australia under the age of 30 are on tattoo trend; it’s fashionable to have a tattoo!

Motivations for getting a tattoo range from personal statement pieces, an act of rebellion or simply a fashion accessory and as my views on tattoos have changed so do some of the Inkster’s motivations.

Unfortunately 1/3 of Inksters suffer Tattoo Regret and seek removal options .

Thankfully what is done can be undone! Although in the case of tattoo removal it’s not without considerable cost and sometimes at the consequence of incomplete removal or scarring.

If the initial motivation of inking yourself has faded and your tattoo hasn’t, and you are part of the collective 1/3 of Inksters suffering from tattoo regret and considering rewriting history, then laser tattoo removal may be worth considering.

Or if you’re considering becoming an Inkster and you’re in the habit of changing your mind-Think before you Ink and head to Askinsolutions where I’ve compiled a complete guide to the latest, best and most successful tattoo removal options.

I’d love to know how you feel about neck tattoos?

S x

DOES THE DEVIL WEAR BOTOX ? or TURN THAT FROWN UPSIDE DOWN!

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Injecting Botox is one the most common anti-aging procedures performed today and it never fails to provoke animated robust debate as to whether you should or shouldn’t use Botox.

The childhood vaccination debate is tame by comparison!

I’ll leave the vaccination debate to the immunologists.

Medically speaking Botox is a relatively safe non -surgical procedure performed in office in less than 20 minutes with few, if any side effects. It’s less controversial uses are for medical conditions such as Hyperhidrosis (excessive sweating), Chronic Migraines and Cerebral Palsy.

Despite these medical indications nothing divides the sisterhood like the Grand Canyon at the mention of Botox! There are three sides to this passionate debate.

Team Botox. Those who offer full disclosure about their Botox use. These are loud and proud users and who will not be shamed into being quiet!

Love her loathe her look, Dolly Parton is one of few who are open about her use of Botox and we love Dolly for her frankness.

Dolly says ‘Thanks to Botox and fillers, as well as the work that I’ve already had, my face pretty much maintains itself.’

Not everyone has the confidence of Dolly but she confesses it makes her feel good about herself -‘She’s standing by her Man’!.

The Clusers (closet users) . They keep their youthful ‘beauty secret’ close to their chests. The ‘Clusers’ are completely unaware (or seem oblivious to the stares) a furrowed free brow over the age of 30 might signal a relationship with the pointy end of a botox filled syringe.

Not wanting to ‘dis’ our Aussie Nicole but she was a famous’ Cluser’ attributing her stunning, frozen, peaches and cream appearance to healthy eating and exercise… later ‘fessing’ up about her Botox use…mmmmmm!

And…

The strident Nay Sayers. This group would rather stab themselves in their own eye with a fork, rather than ‘poison’ their bodies that are a temple! These vocalists opine loudly preferring instead to stave off the markers of time with rosehip oil, shaming the ‘Clusers’ back into the closet firmly slamming the door behind themselves, for fear of being labeled vain, self absorbed, frivolous or worse, not blessed with youthful genes! Gasp! Gwyneth Paltrow is their team captain!

Fuel for the Nay Sayers…

A recent study by the University of Toronto found women who used botox were perceived to be ‘more vain and colder’ than those who used less extreme anti-aging measures such as skin care. Ouch !

But if it makes you happy…

Dr Michael Lewis at the University of Cardiff performed a study where 12/25 people were injected with Botox and the remaining were injected with fillers. The 12 who were injected with Botox were found to be significantly less depressed, anxious and irritable than those who did not.

So exactly what is Botox?

Botox is a purified form of Botulinum toxin type A and is a muscle relaxant. We know it by its registered trade name Botox. Botox is a therapeutic protein and when injected in small quantities into the muscle works to interrupt the nerve signals being sent to the muscles telling them to contract.

Acetylcholine is the neurotransmitter released by nerves attaching it to muscle cells, which tell the muscle to contract. Botox blocks this process. It paralyses the muscles at the site of injection temporarily as the nerve fibers are able to regenerate themselves after a couple of months.

How is it performed?

An experienced Doctor or a cosmetic nurse under Doctors supervision performs Botox.

Botox is first diluted with saline before being injected into the muscle. It usually takes 24-72 hours to take effect and lasts up to 12 weeks.

What are the costs?

Depending on the areas being treated costs range between $360-$770 varying with the amount being used. Botox is usually measured in units with a forehead typically using up to 30 units for desired results.

What are the risks?

Eyelid droop (Ptosis)

Asymmetrical eyebrows

Bruising and redness at injection site

Infection at injection site

Flu like symptoms lasting a couple of days

Contraindications

Pregnant or lactating

Known allergies to Botox

What about long term?

A long term study performed on identical twins by Dr W Binder found the twin who had regularly used Botox over a period of 13 years had less visible facial lines with no adverse effects.

Realistically we live in a world of ageism where youth rules supreme! We live longer, working longer and lead active lives for longer. Is it wrong to want a youthful mindset to be reflected in the mirror?

Heated debate will rage on but ultimately the decision is yours! Finding an experienced practioner to guide you through the decision making process will help you make an informed choice. The decision remains yours and not because a genetically blessed celebrity tells you the secret to a wrinkle free face is through contentment and a smile!

S x

DIETITIAN LORNA GARDEN SAYS ‘CHRISTMAS AND HEALTHY FOODS ARE COMPATIBLE ‘ !

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Christmas is a time for all things sparkly – Lorna’s, Champagne, flashing Christmas tree lights and if you’re lucky one carat diamonds for each ear, boxed in blue and tied with a gorgeous white satin ribbon in the perfect bow – too obvious ?

My ‘Fit Foodie’ tennis mate Lorna Garden, sparkles with good health, wellness, vitality and a carotene tinged complexion attributed to a love of carrots !

‘Lornatic’, as she is known in our tennis group, is a registered Dietitian with an impressive professional pedigree. Lorna believes being creative with fresh ingredients will help curb our predilection to overindulge during the silly season ,reducing post Christmas damage control. I’ve enlisted her to help us through the season of excess with some healthy eating tips.

Lorna says…

fit festive food

One of the wonderful things about Christmas is that people get together and prepare and share special foods and dishes with friends and family. Choosing fresh ingredients and being creative with nibbles and desserts can turn your festive season into a fit and fun time, rather than a time of overindulgence that you spend weeks working off.

Here’s my favourite fit, festive food suggestions this Christmas:

Berries & cherries. Not only are they packed with antioxidants, vitamins, minerals and fibre but raspberries, blueberries, gooseberries, loganberries, strawberries and cherries are all available fresh now and are low in kilojoules and have virtually no fat. Frozen berries are awesome blended with natural or coconut yoghurt as an ice cream alternative, and a huge bowl of juicy cherries is a must for the Christmas table.

Go nuts. One of the best options is to buy fresh nuts in their shell – walnuts, pecans, peanuts, brazil nuts, almonds, or pistachios and have fun cracking them open and making a big mess. It is much more difficult to over eat them this way! Always buy nuts raw and unsalted, and dry roast them yourself if you prefer them crunchier.

Vietnamese rice paper rolls. Fresh vegetables & herbs, with bean shoots & rice noodles, and chicken, prawns, marinated tofu or lean pork, (use up those leftovers!), these are a fun food to have as an easy family meal on a hot day, or as an elegant appetiser with cocktails.

Minted watermelon. This is too easy! Toss chunks of fresh watermelon with fresh, chopped mint and keep chilled. Keep a container full in the fridge for a quick snack, puree for a refreshing drink or serve with natural yogurt for an easy dessert.

Chocolate coated strawberries and banana. I might be stretching the meaning of ‘fit food’ here, but if you are going to indulge in a little chocolate I always think it is better if it’s dark and wrapped around some fruit like fresh strawberries or banana (then frozen – yum!).

Roast Turkey. Turkey is low in fat and high in protein, and a good source of iron, zinc, phosphorus, potassium and B vitamins. Cook it with minimum fat added, remove the skin and visible fat and enjoy it with a little cranberry sauce and a plate load of fresh vegetables or salad.

Beetroot. Not only a potential ergogenic aid but this vibrant vegetable is also an excellent source of phytochemicals and antioxidants. Wonderful roasted in a rocket salad or raw with grated carrot, orange and mint, or in a fresh juice. The perfect color for the Christmas table.

Mineral water. Add a dash of lime or cranberry juice and mint leaves for a refreshing & rehydrating drink without excessive sugar.

Mango. It’s not an Australian summer without fresh mango. Enjoy slurped straight off the skin, or add to fruit platters, fruit salad, smoothies, and even salads (with raw macadamia nuts of course!).

Dips. Fill a platter with grissini sticks, carrot & zucchini pieces & watercrackers and serve with a selection of fresh, low fat dips like tzatziki, hummus, creamed corn or beetroot, and dip away. A much healthier option to crisps & pastries.

Remember, keep the indulgences to just a couple of days and fill up on fresh, healthy food and drinks the rest of the time, for a fit, fun festive season

For related reading visit www.lornagarden.com

Lorna Garden is an Accredited Practising Dietitian with over 20 years experience .

DOES MOTHER KNOW BEST ?

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Lenny Kravitz loved his Mum sooo much he named an album after her…Mama Said – True / False ?

For Lenny lovers,we all know this to be False. ‘Mama Said’ wasn’t an album filled with helpful tips like – don’t pick your face or always take a jumper with you just in case the weather changes. It was an album he made after his divorce from actress Lisa Bonet in 1993 .

Spanning cultures, over centuries, Mothers have been dispensing skin care advice.

Like generational recipes, our first initiation into the world of skin care and cosmetics is commonly by our mothers, whose mother’s before them, have dispensed the same advice; sound or otherwise.

My Mother Val was a vast consumer of skin care products, with a bathroom cabinet rivalling any major city department store beauty counter. Mum introduced me to the importance of caring for your skin and developing healthy skin care habits. However she may have been a little too relaxed when it came to sunscreen!

Researching this blog ( coffee with girlfriends ), I discovered overwhelmingly, the most common skin care tip given by the wise sages that are our Mothers, was to always take your makeup off before going to bed – sound advice !

Rate or Slate – Ten skin care tips our Mothers shared. Have they survived the test of time and what, if any, do they still rate in today’s age of innovative and active skin care ?

1 . Aerin Lauder-Granddaughter of Estee Lauder – My Grandmother always said “You only have one face; take care of it. No matter how tired you are, cleanse and moisturise , stay out of the sun and drink water”

✔ Rate – aside from the excellent skin care pedigree, Estee’s advice covers all of the fundamentals of good skin care- Cleanse /Treat /Protect and Hydration!

2. Veronica – It wasn’t the best advice I got from my Grandma…she used to tell me to pinch my cheeks to add colour to them (talk about broken capillaries which I have a few) , then she said bite, pinch & lick my lips to add colour & shine to them………….

✗ Slate The repetitive injury of pinching the cheeks would certainly have caused the diffuse redness or telangiectasia you mention, especially susceptible in a fragile skin. A less injurious method of creating an healthy glow might have been the application of good ole fashioned rouge! The continual licking of the lips to add shine creates a drying environment…nothing a slick of lipstick wouldn’t fix!

3. Nicole – The best beauty advice my Mum gave me is to be sun smart and protect my skin by wearing a broad spectrum moisturiser or sunscreen, hat and covering up at the beach!

✔ Rate – can’t argue with this advice. Nicole’s Mum is super sunsmart!

4. Rebecca Judd, Television personality / Blogger – The best beauty advice my mum stressed was to be wary of wasting money on expensive ‘wonder’ products and instead invest in quality skin treatments from time-to-time. Our family favourites include QV Skincare’s Cream and Musq Cosmetics Clay and Rice face scrub.” 

✔ Rate Rebecca’s Mum is spot on! A cream doesn’t have to be expensive to be efficacious, it just needs to have ingredients that work!

5. Melanie – My mother taught me not to squeeze pimples instead steam face and put a hot face cloth on it to bring it to a head and then apply toothpaste to dry it out.

✗ Slate This at-home method is one to avoid! Toothpaste can contain ingredients such as Triclosan, hydrogen peroxide, alcohol and menthol, which can inflame, irritate and sensitise the skin. Steaming the face when there is active infection and inflammation further exacerbates an already irritated skin. Stick instead to anti inflammatory/antibacterial products containing Salicylic acid.

Dr Nina Wines of Northern Sydney Dermatology says. “Don’t pick or squeeze!“

Our hands and nails carry millions of bugs – some good, some bad,” dermatologist “When the skin is touched, scratched or picked constantly, these are transmitted to the face and usually makes acne worse.” Mum was also right about not squeezing, as it will cause scarring. “Squeezing causes the debris in the already inflamed follicle to penetrate even deeper into the dermis,” Dr Wines says. This can lead to permanent scarring.

✔ Rate Go with the advice of Dr Wines and your Mum on this one!

6. Simone – My Mum taught me to use lemons for their bleaching effect – for the dark skin on your elbows, on freckles and sunspots on your face, – add lemon in your hair and the sun will give you that bleached sunkissed look.

✗ Slate Whilst lemons have long been known to have lightening properties, some people may develop a condition known as phytophotodermatitis after lemon juice has been applied to the skin and exposed to the sun. Explore other treatment options such as lPL which are more effective in the removal of brown spots and ephilides (freckles).

7. Sam – Eating chocolate gives you pimples!

✗ Slate Scientists and researchers have tried to find a link between breakouts and eating chocolate, but there’s no evidence to support the claim. Some studies have shown diets high in protein, fat, sugar and dairy have an adverse effect and since chocolate contains all of these ingredients,it’s best to avoid but it’s not the only factor in contributing to pimples.
8. Carolyn – Mum always said that cucumber is great for puffy or sore eyes

✔ Rate Chilled cucumber is a great natural way to treat puffy and swollen eyes. The enzymes and astringent properties contained in cucumber helps to reduce inflammation. Cucumbers contain vitamins A,C,K and Pantothenic acid which helps your skin retain moisture.

9. Camilla – My mum says “why spend all your money on those expensive products, all you need is a bath and soap”!

✗ Slate Good hygiene is important.Using a soap which is not PH balanced can be very drying to the skin. Skin’s surface has a naturally acidic nature balanced between 4.5 – 5.5 where soap is very alkaline upsetting the acid mantle of skin which has a natural protective flora preventing infection.This flora is stripped by soap exposing it to infection. It’s best to stick to a cleanser that is slightly acidic maintaining the protective acid mantle of the skin.

10. Kate – My Nan told me to rub Vaseline on my eyelashes to make them grow.

✗ Slate Sorry Kate your Nan did get this one wrong.There is no benefit in rubbing any kind of lubricant into the eyelashes for accelerating growth!

Finally I asked my daughters what skin care tips they have absorbed from me?

A resounding and unanimous ‘sunscreen Mum’……a proud moment!

ASkinSolutions x

IN THE RING WITH MELASMA

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First a few questions….

Does your skin have more in common with Spot the Dog than Nicole Kidman perfect?

Are you wearing a Butterfly pattern of pigmentation on your face?

In the summer months do you find yourself wearing more and more makeup to disguise those patchy brown spots on your cheeks,chin and forehead?

Are you of child bearing age and someone in your family bears the similar markings on their face?

Yes to any of these questions means you’re probably suffering from a common skin condition called Melasma.

The ‘Mask of Pregnancy’ is the common name for this facial pigmentary disorder affecting predominantly females in the 20-50 years age group with olive skin complexions, presenting in a symmetric butterfly pattern.

Melasma ranges in colour from dark brown-grey patches according to the depth of where the pigment lies in the skin. Practising as a Dermal Clinician I see the anxiety and concern these sufferers experience and the lengths thay will go to in order to rid themselves of these sometimes psychosocially damaging patches.

Mohammed Ali said…”Floats like a butterfly but stings like a bee”. Was he wondering how to treat Melasma?

Ali won his bouts with a combination approach of an uppercut and a left and right jab.Treating Melasma needs to be approached with same determination and with a combination of therapies.

Glove up and lets get in the Ring….Melasma needs to be disposed of !

Asess the Triggers and Causes,consider any underlying hormonal issues
Consider Laser and Light based therapies as treatment options
Lightening and Bleaching agents
Sunscreen,,sunscreen and more sunscreen !

Unfortunately there are no quick fixes and it is possible you will never be free of the condition but with some patience and professional guidance from your health care provider, sufferers will be rewarded with eventual fading of pigmentation, keeping the condition in check.

Fight to the Death!

ASkinSolutions x

HOPE IN A JAR

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As a Dermal Clinician I’m not wanting to wage a one women crusade targeting cosmetic companies, preferring instead to provide information for consumers allowing them to make informed choices when purchasing skin care.

Recently on Facebook a friend posted her new range of recently purchased, beautifully wrapped ,psuedo medically labeled skin care with the caption #illgiveitago, which got me thinking……..do consumers really have an understanding of ingredients in skin care and what they can expect to achieve from using them,and /or their limitations……….or just throwing the dice with every purchase ?

“If it’s wet dry it…….if it’s dry wet it’! is the ‘catch cry’ for those of us who deal in skin.

Skin defines who we are and how other people perceive us so little wonder Aussies hand over in excess of 60 million of hard earned $$$$$ a year in cold hard cash in order to present the best possible us – but are these $$$$$ well invested ?

In our society beauty and youth reign supreme, so no surprises when we’re seduced by clever marketing campains and find ourselves clamouring for products claiming to be the elixir of youth, hoping to find our spent youth in the next jar!

Skin’s demands are simple. It doesn’t like to be stressed and it loves to be cared for.

Skin wears it’s badge of irritation, showing it’s displeasure by getting all rashy and cloaking you in red. Apply something it loves and be rewarded with glowing ,dewy skin free of irritation and imperfection. However, if – like many of us, you are part of the unfortunate collective who suffer from chronic skin disorders then management isn’t always so simple.

“She works hard for her money” ….thanks Donna Summer.

Skin works tirelessly 24 hrs a day functioning as a barrier to the environment and infection. If compromised by excessive cleaning or injury it is unable to perform its job as a gatekeeper. In order for the skin to perform optimally it must maintain an acid mantle of 4.5-5.5 and maintain lubrication by secreting sweat and oil through our skin glands This oil also acts as a waterproofing agent on the surface of the skin.

Great Expectations…..

There is no quick fix!

The science of skin care is ever evolving and has led to the rebranding of skin care as ‘cosmeceuticals’ with names such as Medik8, Cosmedix, Skin Physics, MD Formulations, DNA Reset and Photon to name a few. Such medicalised name branding is a deliberate strategy to insinuate confidence in their brand, subtly leading consumers to believe their product is medically endorsed.

Truth in aging published a review describing the the term Cosmeceutical as being misleading and stating under US law to have no meaning. Further in the article it describes there is a record number of warning letters to Cosmeceutical companies for making misleading claims.

http://www.truthinaging.com/review/cosmeceuticals-what-are-they

Even with my background, at times I find it hard not to be seduced by all this colour & movement and “freegift with purchase” marketing, but can they deliver on their claims, or will it only end in empty wallets and dissappointment for the consumer?

Skin functioning as a barrier frequently means that absorption of many of these ‘super duper and innovative’ ingredients is prevented – they are unable to be absorbed due to their large molecular size so will stay exactly where you applied them.

For the most part it will be tears for the consumer…..but there are some ingredients in skin care that will benefit your skin.

Tis not all acne & age spots doom and gloom……….

What does work? What should we be looking for?

Retinoids and Retinoic acids

Vitamin A derivative known to increase epithelial turnover
Used in the treatment of fine lines, acne and pigmetation changes
Retinoids are available by prescipton only and are available in greater strengths
Retinols may be purchased over the counter in skin care formulations
Degraded by light so best used at night
May increase photosensitivity so sunscreen is vital
Introduce slowly as may cause irritation
Not to be used by lactating or pregnant women

Vitamin C or L-Ascorbic acid

Anitoxidant and essential part of skin health
Essential for collagen formation
When used in conjunction with Vitamin E and Zinc plays an important role in wound healing

Vitamin E

Antioxidant and found naturally occuring in sebum which lubricates the skin
Absorption is limited to the epidermis

Vitamin D

Synthesised in the skin and benefits those suffering from psoriasis
Assists in the wound healing process

Vitamin K

May be used topically in the treatment of bruising,spider veins ,stretch marks,burns and inflammation
Used in the treatment of Rosacea

Vitamin B complex

Helps maintain skin hydration
Assists with pigmentary changes
Reduces inflammation

Alpha Lipoic Acid

fatty acid and powerful antioxidant
Facilitates the properties of Vit C and E

Hyaluronic Acid

Naturally occurring in the skin
Attracts water and able to absorb 1000 x it body weight
Used in fillers due to it’s water loving properties

Gold in them thar hills……

Minerals for the skin

Copper

works together with Vit C to form elastin,a supporting structure of the skin improving elasticity and thickness

Zinc

Healing properties
Regulates oil production
Benefits an Acne skin

If you want a shared loving relationship with your skin, include some of these ingredients in your skin care and remember ‘if it’s wet dry it, if it’s dry wet it!

Rome wasn’t built in a day, so allow 6-8 weeks for visible signs of improvement and to include these Vitamins in an healthy diet whilst maintaining good hydration with lots of water…..your skin will love you for it!

ASkinSolutions is happy to answer any skin care questions you might have.