SKIN DIARY OF A DERMAL CLINICIAN – what a skin professional uses on her own skin !

August 17, 2016August 17, 20164 Comments

This month I’m getting down, dirty and a little bit personal, opening my bathroom cabinet with a peek inside my personal skin care toolbox, with a little too revealing of my no fuss, no muss approach to skin care.

As a Dermal Clinician and skin health professional I’m sharing my daily skin care diary with a glimpse into what a skin health professional does (or rather doesn’t do) to keep her skin healthy and looking it’s best…..you may be surprised!

You won’t see a bathroom cabinet heaving with products. I maintain a simple skincare philosophy; combining ingredients that deliver results, backed up by scientific evidence. My message of Keeping Skincare Simple is what works best for my skin.

Acknowledged or otherwise, being on the front line of skincare/skinhealth means there are pressures to maintain and present a happy, healthy skin…. after all, you wouldn’t go to a dentist with bad teeth would you?

My minimalistic streamlined approach to skincare was born from lack of time with a splash of laziness – no Robinson Crusoe here – so what little I do do for my skin needs to be both effective and time efficient and able to treat the visible signs of ageing, of which there are a plenty….I’ll get to that!

You would expect and assume, with my background in skin sciences I’d have this ‘skin thing’ all sown up, with the perfect formula for radiant, glowing and youthful skin at my fingertips. As they say, ‘careful, assuming makes an ASS out of U and Me’ and it not surprisingly, I don’t always have the perfect skin 100% of the time. Yes, being a Dermal Clinician means I have the skills and resources in my skin care arsenal to know what works and what doesn’t when treating my own skin, but there are times when my skin doesn’t always play nice!

Under the magnifying lamp…

With my Dermal Clinician hat on, there’s no denying that this more than middle aged woman is suffering from the effects of the visible signs of ageing, due in part to a misspent youth on the beaches of Sydney. Pigmentation/ skin laxity/increasing dryness together with the occasional spot and ohh, my arch nemesis – fine lines and ‘wrinkles at rest’ all combine to produce the visible signs of ageing. They’re referred to as ‘wrinkles at rest’ because they remain permanently etched long after that last laugh… well, find a seat somewhere else!

Whats in that cabinet….

Morning routine

I use a gentle Cosmedix oil based cleanser – Purity Solution morning and night as I find this to be the most efficient in removing makeup and dirt. I tend to steer away from foaming cleansers as the lauryl sulfates needed for foaming to occur are a bit drying on my skin.
2-3 times a week and in the shower I exfoliate with Clinicians Complex Microdermabrasion Cream which contains fine magnesium oxide crystals helping to remove a buildup of dead skin cells.
You can never have enough sun protection so I use a broad spectrum UV sunscreen doubling as my daily moisturiser…..might be a little lazy but it does the job!
Colour Science manufacture a ‘Sunforgettable’ mineral based powder with 50+sunscreen – water resistant , great when exercising.

Night-time weapons

I repeat my cleansing ritual using a face washer which helps to exfoliate.
Whilst my skin is still damp I apply SkinMedica Vitamin C+E Complex serum which I allow to absorb-approx 1 minute (taking up almost ½ of my allocated routine)
This is followed by a prescription strength 0.05% Vitamin A – commonly known as Retrieve

Tip; Vitamin A and Vitamin C are best used at night as they’re oxidized by air and light.

If I extra moisture is needed i reach for Cosmedix Rescue Balm/Mask which can be left on overnight – this can be quite occlusive and not for everyone but I love the thick texture and how hydrated my skin feels in the morning!

Tip; Don’t forget your neck and décolletage – extend product onto these areas as they’re often exposed to the sun.

And with a little help from my friends…

Bi-annually I enlist the help of my colleagues for some IPL keeping pigmentation and redness under control.

I’m a fan of medical grade peels which resurface the skin. Both these treatments involve a little downtime but are well worth it when chasing a more youthful even skin tone.

I’ve made friends with muscle relaxants and dermal fillers but less is definitely more, when it comes to muscle relaxants and dermal fillers.

What I should do more of…..

Eat less sugar –sugar causes inflammaging –a low grade chronic inflammation at the cellular level and sits alongside the sun as one of the causes of aging and in the aggravation of acne.

2. Drink more water- this hydration calculator will help you assess if you’re drinking enough water

3. Exercise more- – exercise helps to reduce cortisol, the hormone released when we’re stressed.

I plan on ageing disgracefully …. those visible signs of ageing are in for quite a fight… glove up wrinkles and pigmentation – I will not go quietly!

Disclosure :Lastly I’d like to mention this post is my personal skin diary as a Dermal Clinician and I have included products I have purchased and found to be effective…..also no animals were kicked or maimed in the writing of this post!

WHAT MAKES A FAUX GLOW – FAKING IT?

March 15, 2016December 27, 2016Leave a comment

Who doesn’t love a tan? A tan screams of health and wellness! I love the way a tan deceives us into a flawless, 5kg lighter, sans cellulite and blotchy skin, bronzed better version of oneself .

What I don’t love is skin cancer and premature aging. Both unwanted side effects of sun exposure needed for a natural golden glow.

Friend’s of ASkinSolutions know when it comes to the sun, regardless of season, or changing weather patterns, I’m a sunsafety Nazi.There is no ‘sloppy’ in my ‘slip and slapping’ of sunscreen.

So well protected am I from the sun’s harsh rays, achieving that #Iliveinnoosa tan is unlikely due to the impenetrable layers of sunscreen I apply each morning.

Faking it till you make it!

Still, the lure of a tan is strong…..so I’ve become a ‘Faker’, a ‘Spray Tan in a Can Fan’!

Sunless tanning allows me to get my ‘glow on’ safely and without the risks associated with sun tanning.

I’m enjoying being in great company, with more and more people heeding the #sunsmart message and ‘getting it on’ with their faux glow – tanorifics are seeking safe alternative methods of tanning.

So how do they work?

The active ingredient in self-tanning lotions and spray tans is a molecule called dihydroxyacetone (DHA). DHA is a 3-carbon sugar molecule, when applied topically, interacts chemically with the amino acids in the skin producing a darkening effect. DHA doesn’t damage the skin as it only affects the outermost cells of the epidermis.The higher the concentrate of DHA in a tanning accelerator, the darker the colour.

Erythrulose is another tan accelerator, creating the same chemical reaction in the skin as DHA but taking longer to develop.

Not a Trump tan fan?

How to avoid looking more tandoori than tanorific !

The new breed in spray tanning means the orange ghosts of spray tans past, are just that, a thing of the past! Todays spray tans are more natural looking and longer lasting; normally 7-10 days. Spray tan representatives attribute the familiar orange hue to the sourcing poor quality DHA and in tanning solutions with DHA saturations of 10% or higher.

Tip; Experts suggest for a natural looking tan, choosing a tan a couple of shades darker than your natural skin colour, gradually building colour, rather than leaping straight to ‘Dark Chocolate’.

‘natural and organic’ – are they?

Ecocert is a worldwide organic certification body. It’s a leading certifier of organic food and food products, developing standards for natural and organic skincare and cosmetics.

Spray tan companies use terms such as ‘organic’ and ‘natural’ as a marketing strategy as consumers lean toward healthier lifestyle choices but are they?

Whilst not deceitful, they may be misleading. Ingredients such as Aloe Vera, Shea Butter and Avocado are just some of the ‘natural and organic’ ingredients sourced and used in organically labeled formulations for sunless tanners but DHA remains the active ingredient and is manufactured from ‘natural’ not ‘organic’ sources-yes there is a difference.

Biddiscombe Labs are an Ecocert approved skin care manufacturer and says ‘’There is no such thing as certified organic DHA.” As a raw material it can be used in cosmetic preparations with ecocert approval if it is manufactured by any of the four certified and approved DHA manufacturers, viagra sans ordonnance which then allows the labeling of ‘Natural and Organic’.

How to achieve perfect faux glow!

Enlist the help of a professionals
Do follow the instuctions of the professionals
Wait 4-5 days between self tanning applications – unless they’re gradual tanners
Exfoliate prior to self tanning as this extends the life of your tan and ensures even application, paying particular attention to knees and ankles
Avoid hair removal, waxing or shaving for 48 after tanning accelerators.
Apply a moisturizer around elbows and knees prior to tanning as it tends to concentrate in drier areas
Avoid products containing more than 10 % DHA
Avoid tanning areas which aren’t normally tanned i.e.;inside of wrists ,underside of arms and in-between fingers – the love is in the detail!
Go easy on tanning your face, instead match your makeup

Donts…

Avoid using products containing Alphahydroxy Acids and Retinol as they will reduce the life of your spray tan
Don’t have any permanent hair reduction treatments ie; IPL or Laser if a self tan is present
If irritation develops discontinue use

Are there any side effects from using DHA self-tanning preparations?

Skin irritations are the most common side effect experienced.

Although DHA is not considered harmful, some reports have found that it may have the potential to cause genetic alterations and DNA damage.

Some studies show high concentrations of DHA applied to the skin may result in free radical formation causing changes and mutations in the skin.

EEK,sounds bad but What does that mean?

Concentrations of DHA in self tanners are very low and considered non-toxic and safe to use according to Australia’s governing body The Food and Drug Administration (FDA).The FDA have approved the external use of sunless tanners containing DHA and recommend protecting mucosal membranes and eyes. The mist caused by spray tanning booths may be inhaled, so on the other hand, commercial spray tanning has not been approved.

…But I’ve read it can give you cancer?

To date, “There is no evidence that spray tans cause cancer. Products containing DHA are safe to use on your skin and don’t pose an health risk either during an individual session or many sessions over time” says The Cancer Council.

Tip; It’s good practice to protect your eyes and lips with Vaseline and ensure good ventilation when having a spray tan.

What starts in fun ends in streaks – some quick fixes!

Long baths and or swimming in a chlorinated pool
Products containing Alpha Hydroxy Acids-these will chemically exfoliate
Loofah whilst showering

Remember faux glowing offers no sun protection so play it safe and use 50+ protection rain hail or shine.

DON’T GET SLIP SLAP SLOPPY WITH SUNSCREEN !

November 29, 2015September 11, 20162 Comments

Summer lovin-skin cancer not so much!

With an early kick off to summer and soaring temps it’s an important reminder to apply sunscreen correctly…..yes there is a technique!

I’ve shared my 13 top sunscreen tips to keep you Sunsmart over summer!

The Cancer Council launched it’s recent Sunsmart campaign of ‘National Skin Cancer Action Week’ providing preventative guidelines and the correct technique of sunscreen application, highlighting the importance of being Sunsmart.

Telling the kids to apply sunscreen is a bit like telling them not to run around the pool; what starts in fun ends in tears! Or worse skin cancer!

A recent study found only 30% of women and 15% of men apply sunscreen before going out into the sun….no surprises… 2/3 Aussies get skin cancer before the age of 70.

What will it take?

Disappointingly, another study shows, for some, even with a previous diagnosis of skin cancer it wasn’t enough to get a lather up!

Dermatologists agree that most people aren’t aware of the correct application technique, nor that reapplication is necessary for adequate protection, or that sunscreen products vary in their directions of usage.

How much is enough?

7 teaspoons or 35mls is enough sunscreen to keep you covered!

Experts advise applying sunscreen liberally to exposed sites 15 to 30 minutes before going out into the sun, followed by reapplication of sunscreen to exposed sites 15 to 30 minutes after sun exposure begins.

This reapplication during sun exposure is key to providing optimal sun protection and a tip most sunlovers aren’t aware of.

Active sunlovers remember sweating, swimming and rubbing may remove sunscreen so keep that tube handy for reapplication!

I keep a couple scattered throughout the house…. under the sink in the kitchen and in the bathroom. Keeping it in the bathroom means it doubles as my body moisturiser post shower. Like any skin care product, applying to damp skin makes sunscreen more easily absorbed and if clothing moves around during sun exposure, you’ve got it covered! Keeping a tube in the kitchen, the busiest room of the house, means I can supervise and police application…..everyone’s gotta eat !

My top 13 tips

1. Shake the bottle before use as this mixes the ingredients evenly throughout the sunscreen

2. Check the expiration date-if there is a change of consistency ,colour then chuck it; like most things left in the car, they expire! Once the sunscreen reaches 30 degrees and above, the ingredients become inactive.

3. Choose the sunscreen which best suits your skin type or activity .If your activity sees you outside for extended periods or in the water, ensure you use a water resistant broad spectrum 50+ protection, reapplying every 40-80mins.

4. When applying sunscreen to your face, a sunscreen designed specifically for the face often has a higher SPF value and is less irritating to the eyes.

5. A shot glass or 35mls is a good guide of how much you’ll need to cover exposed areas, be generous, rubbing the sunscreen into the skin until it’s no longer white.

6. If you have oily skin or suffer from acne, keep away from thicker sunscreens favouring instead a zinc based which has healing benefits in addition to it’s sunscreen properties.

7. Play particular attention to the tops of ears, back of the neck, feet, and even even the part in your hair….anything which is exposed to the sun; Bob Marley died from melanoma underneath his big toe nail!

8. Wear clothing designed to block the sun…thin clothing such as a T-shirt only offers a UV protection of 7.

9. Application 20-30 minutes before you go into the sun and then again 15-30 mins after sun exposure begins. Titanium and zinc based sunscreens offer immediate protection.

10. Time poor? I advise my clients to buy a sunscreen which doubles as a daytime moisturiser, forming part of their daily skin care routine.

11. Spent a bit of time on your makeup and don’t fancy reapplying sunscreen over the top during the day? Colorscience make a great mineral based powder which provides broad spectrum water resistant 50+ sun protection, combined with a great makeup finish…whats not to love?

12. Hand washing removes sunscreen….just a reminder!

13. The use of insect repellants can reduce the efficacy of sunscreens by 33% – reapply more frequently and with a higher SPF.

Sun damage is a creeper, accumulating over time, which is why many Aussies are often diagnosed with some form of skin cancer later in life. It’s a case of ‘if you snooze’ in the sunscreen game…..’you lose’!

Rain hail or shine….no excuses….dont get – Slip Slap Sloppy.Lather up liberally and often when it comes to applying sunscreen!

Remember the best sunscreen is the one you’ll use!

ASkinSolutions x

I SCREEN, YOU SCREEN, CAN WE ALL SCREAM FOR SUNSCREEN?

Or do we?

As the doting mother of 2 teenage tennis playing/surfing girls my neverending refrain of “hat and sunscreen”, has finally been heard/understood/acknowledged by my teenage daughters. I’ve also inadvertently serenaded the neighbours with my suncreen rap. Proving more of a challenge is their non compliant , sun loving father who may require more training or perhaps a cochlear implant!

Many of us will be diagnosed with skin cancer in our lifetime, but there’s plenty we can do to lessen our risk.I’ll talk about that in a moment.

First some sobering stats…

Australia has the highest incidence of skin cancer in the world despite many successful sunsmart campaigns.

Are we desensitised, and is the message still seeing us remembering to lather up? As sunloving Aussies are we sticking our heads in the sand, and assuming the attitude of “it wont happen to me or anyone i know” and “She’ll be right mate“?

In reference to my Meatloaf loving friend, two outta three ain’t bad………….

Well maybe it was ok for Meatloaf but to think two out three Australians will be diagnosed with skin cancer by the age of 70 has me “crying icicles instead of tears“-urgh!. For many of us 70 may feel a long way off, as did turning 50 for me, but it crept up quick and fast, so it’s an accurate prediction a lot of us will be diagnosed with a potentially life threatening skin cancer.

I’m part of this statistic after being diagnosed with a number of lesions including squamous cell carcinoma and basal cell carcinoma. Statistics show I’m not alone and this is not a group encouraging joiners. These lesions are a result of a childhood spent on beaches and in backyard pools lathered in baby oil chasing the elusive deep rich golden tan which thanks to my Celtic forebears would always remain elusive. Dont get me wrong I still love a rich golden tan, and nothing screams “healthy ” louder than a tan, but I now safely worship at the alter of a spray tan booth!

Thankfully tanning beds have fallen foul of favour as the research shows the use of tanning beds prior to the age of 35 accelerates the risk of melanoma by a staggering 59%.

Over 2000 Australians are treated for skin cancer every day. Do these mind boggling statistics shock us into being smart when exposed to the sun ? The increase in rates of diagnosis of skin cancers suggests not. If those statistics dont shock us into protecting our skins, the latest statistic including the under 25’s might.

Melanoma is the number one cancer killer of this group!

What about Vitamin D?

Yes, vitamin D is important for overall health but for the majority of skins, walking to the car, or simply hanging the washing on the line can achieve the required exposure. Mental equation…..Susan x washing for a family of 4 = synthesising enough Vit D for South East Queensland!

Lets talk about sunscreens.

A physical sunscreen is one that contains zinc or titanium dioxide which forms a barrier on top of the skin,which reflects and scatters UV rays preventing it passing through to the deeper layers of our skin where it can cause damage. Activity and towelling off after swimming removes sunblock so re-application is vital.

A chemical sunscreen interacts chemically within the skin to form a protective barrier. Sunlight is deactivated and degraded after coming in contact with the chemicals in the sunscreen. A chemical sunscreen must be applied 20 minutes prior to sun exposure for it to be effective and reapplied throughout the day. Your skin has a natural SPF, partially determined by how much melanin your skin contains, that is, how darkly pigmented your skin is, but don’t rely upon this for protection from the sun. The SPF is a multiplication factor. If you can stay out in the sun 15 minutes before burning, using a sunscreen with an SPF of 10 would allow you to resist burning for 10x longer or the equivalent of 150 minutes.

“Sunscreens should be viewed as an add on to protective clothing not a substitute,” according to The Australasian College of Dermatologists .There is an armoury of suncreens out there and the decision between a physical and chemical suncreen really depends on your lifestyle.

Broadspectrum sunscreen contain a combination of both chemical and physical sun protection. These are your best bet as they cover all bases.

The best sunscreen is the sunscreen you will use!

If you would like further information on skin cancer or sunscreens please visit www.ASkinSolutions.com.au under our Resource banner or direct a question under our Ask banner.